Monday, March 10, 2025

পান্নায় হীরা পান্না -  into the wild : Exploring Panna Tiger Reserve


 Itinerary


13.03.2025 - 14.03.25  HWH (2340 hrs) - Satna (1505 hrs) by Mumbai Mail ( Ticket Rs 1368/-)

14.03.2025 Satna 
(1635 hrs) > Aryan Riverside Camp - 45 Km ( by Car arranged by resort -3000/- for 5 passenger) NH at Aryan Riverside Camp (@Rs 5,000 per room for 2 people - all food included)

15.03.2025  Morning + Evening Safari - both at Madla+ Night Safari - NH at Aryan Riverside Camp 

16.03.2025  Morning 
at Madla + Evening Safari at Akola - NH at Aryan Riverside Camp 

17.03.2025  Morning Safari at Madla Aryan Riverside Camp 

17.03.2025 Aryan Riverside Camp>Lucknow Airport - 320 Km, 7 hr 31 minutes  (2100) > CCU (2235 - Rs 5500)

5 Travelers: Soma, Sourabh, Mohua, Siba Prasad , Dipankar. One person dropped out



Panna Tiger Reserve, a jewel of Madhya Pradesh's wilderness, is known for its rich biodiversity, deep gorges, plateaus, and dense teak forests. Spanning 542 sq. km, it was declared a tiger reserve in 1994 as part of Project Tiger. The Ken River, which flows through the park, enhances its beauty and Ken Gharial Sanctuary, located within the reserve, is a haven for crocodiles.

🚪 Main Entry Gates of Panna Tiger Reserve. Unlike other forests, you can enter from Madla / Akola gate and come out of Hinota gate (say). The only consideration is the travel time. We entered from Madla gate and saw tiger at Hinota gate zone and initially thought we saw it at Hinota. At one point it overlaps. Unlike Ranthambhor, they do not fine for changing the Gates.

1️⃣ Hintota/Hinouta Gate (Hinauta Range)Western Side

  • Closest to Khajuraho (~30 km)
  • Known for steep gorges and vulture point

2️⃣ Madla Gate (Madla Range)Southern Side

  • The most popular and busiest entry gate
  • Closest to Panna town (~25 km) and Khajuraho (~22 km)
  • Entry point for most jeep safaris

3️⃣ Akola Gate (Akola Zone)South-West Side - should not be the preferred zone and it is  30 Km from Madla gate : quite far; we had to pay Rs 2000 extra just to commute to Akola gate and back to our resort. Safari car will not come to Akola to pick you up , if you stay near Madla gate

4️⃣ Hathni Gate (Buffer Zone - Jinna Area) - It is not very far from Madla

  • This is the place for Night safari - Charges Rs 4500/-

🛶 Special Entry Points

🔹 Ken Gharial Sanctuary Entry

  • Located outside the Core zone, offering boat safaris & crocodile spotting for 15 minutes @ Rs 150/-

🔹 Jinna Buffer Zone Entry (Near Ken Gahrial Sanctuary)

  • Good for night safaris 

🚗 Best Gate for Your Safari?

For first-time visitors & better tiger sighting chancesMadla Gate

The booking of the permit (@ Rs 2500 + Commission of Rs 500 for booking per permit) was done by my trusted and very knowledgeable friend Avijit Ganguly who runs a wildlife magazine Aranyok and a "Company" for Wild life safaris (only). 

avijitwildlife@gmail.com / +91 94330 67783 / +91 98319 18004

🗓️ Day 1: March 13-14, 2025 (Thursday-Friday) – Overnight Train (23:40) to Satna

We paid Rs 250 to the Taxi, booked through Yatri Sathi.

📍 Journey: Howrah → Satna

🔹 23:40 PM (March 13) – Board Mumbai Mail (Train No. 12321) from Howrah Junction.


🗓️ Day 2: March 14, 2025 (Friday) – Arrival at Aryan Riverside Camp

🔹 17:05 PM (March 14) – Arrive at Satna Railway Station 

Our adventure begins with an overnight train journey from Howrah to Satna, followed by a scenic drive to Aryan Riverside Camp, our eco-friendly retreat nestled by the Ken River.
 (@Rs 5,000 per room for 2 people - all food included)


🔹 17:15 PM – Depart from Satna Train Station to Aryan Riverside Camp (~45 km, ~2 hrs)

🔹 16:15 PM – Tea at local Dhaba. Most of the tea shops were closed due to Holi. In the process we missed the Pandav falls which is on the way to the resort, since it was dark. If you want to see the falls do not stop on the way to the resort.

🔹 19:30 PM – Arrive at Aryan Riverside Camp, an offbeat riverside stay surrounded by pristine wilderness.
🔹 21:30 PM – Dinner at the camp with local Bundelkhandi cuisine.

📍 Night Halt: Aryan Riverside Camp

  • The road from Satna to Panna is a mix of smooth and some uneven patches, but overall, it is fairly motorableThe last stretch towards Aryan Riverside Camp is through forested terrain, making the approach scenic .

🗓️ Day 3: March 15, 2025 (Saturday) – Morning & Evening Safari

📍 Night Halt: Aryan Riverside Camp

Morning Safari

🔹 04:30 AM – Wake-up call, quick tea/coffee.
🔹 05:45 AM – Depart for Madla Gate
🔹 06:20 AM – Depart for Safari (Morning entry: 6:00 AM - 11:30 AM).We took some pillow from           the resort. The roads inside the Park are rough, because they did not use morrum.
🔹 09:00 AM – Toilet break and breakfast - Packed breakfast inside the Park 
🔹 11:30 AM – Exit the park and return to Aryan Riverside Camp (~05 min drive).

Sightings : Tiger 141, 151 and many birds




Afternoon at the Resort

🔹 12:00 PM – Power nap
🔹 01:30 PM – Lunch at the resort.

Evening Safari

🔹 14:30 PM  – Depart for  Madla gate
🔹  15:00 PM – Safari (Evening entry: 3:00 PM - 6:30 PM).
🔹 18:05 PM – Exit the park and return to the camp

Sightings Tiger 151 with a kill and many birds


Night Safari
🔹 18:30 PM  – Depart for  Jinna Gate 
🔹 19:00 PM  – Night Safari
🔹 20:00 PM – Dinner by the Ken River, enjoying the sounds of the jungle.

Sightings zero sighting

##    The Panna night safari starts from 6.30 pm to 9.00 pm. And it happens only in the buffer zones.Ten gypsies are allowed during the night safari.

##    We paid Rs 4500 for Night safari which includes permit + car + guide. It is  30 Km from Madla gate : quite far; we had to pay Rs 2000 extra just to commute to Akola gate and back to our resort. Safari car will not come to Akola to pick you up , if you stay near Madla gate


🗓️ Day 4: March 16, 2025 (Sunday) – More Safaris 

📍 Night Halt: Aryan Riverside Camp

Another thrilling day of morning and evening safaris

Morning Safari

🔹 04:30 AM – Wake-up call, quick tea/coffee.
🔹 05:45 AM – Depart for Madla Gate
🔹 06:00 AM – Depart for Safari (Morning entry: 6:00 AM - 11:30 AM).
🔹 09:00 AM – Toilet break and breakfast - Packed breakfast inside the Park 
🔹 11:30 AM – Exit the park and return to Aryan Riverside Camp (~05 min drive).

Sightings Tiger 243 (injured due to territorial fight) and many birds





Afternoon at the Resort

🔹 12:00 PM – Power nap
🔹 01:30 PM – Lunch at the resort.

Evening Safari

🔹 14:45 PM  – Depart for  Akola gate
🔹  15:30 PM – Safari (Evening entry: 3:00 PM - 6:30 PM). We were late, becuae it took lot of time                                to reach Akola Gate from our resort near Madla Gate.

🔹 18:30 PM – Exit the park and return to the camp

🔹 19:00 PM – Return to the camp, tea and Pakora.
🔹 21:00 PM – Dinner and sharing safari experiences.

Sightings : No Tiger, but many birds


🗓️ Day 5: March 17, 2025 (Monday) – Final Safari & Departure

📍 Night Journey to Kolkata

Morning Safari

🔹 04:30 AM – Wake-up call, quick tea/coffee.
🔹 05:45 AM – Depart for Madla Gate
🔹 06:00 AM – Depart for Safari (Morning entry: 6:00 AM - 11:30 AM).
🔹 09:00 AM – Boating safari inside the Park and saw crocodile
🔹 10:00 AM – Exit the park and return to Aryan Riverside Camp (~05 min drive).

Sightings Tiger 151 with 2 suckling cubs











🔹 10:00 AM – Had breakfast at the camp

🔹10:30 AM – Depart for Lucknow Airport (~320 km, ~7.5 hrs). 

🔹13:30 AM – Had some lnch in a dhaba

🔹17:30 AM – Bought Tunde Kababi from Transport Nagar,Lucknow around 1.5 Km from the airport.
🔹18:30 AM – Reached airport.

  If you have time, you must see Ajaigarh Fort on the way (or Kalinjar Fort ) to Lucknow. But there are 2 routes - tell the driver to take the correct route

Evening Flight to Kolkata

🔹 21:00 PM – Board flight from Lucknow to Kolkata.
🔹 22:35 PM – Arrive in Kolkata, marking the end of an incredible wildlife adventure.


About Panna Tiger Reserve

🔹 Location: Madhya Pradesh, India
🔹 Established: 1994 under Project Tiger
🔹 Area: 542 sq. km
🔹 Landscape: Dry deciduous forests, deep gorges, and the Ken River
🔹 Major Wildlife:

  • Bengal Tiger, Indian Leopard, Sloth Bear, Sambar (largest deer), Nilgai (largest antelope), Chinkara, Indian Wolf
  • Birdlife: Over 200 species, including Paradise Flycatcher (state bird of MP), Indian Vulture and Changeable Hawk-Eagle
  • Some of the Birds which we have seen – Grey Hornbill, Nightjar, Green Pigeon, Shikra, Shrike, Plum headed Parakeet,Vulture
  • Tiger population became 0 because of poaching in 2009. So Tiger 151 means , 1- T-1 : 5 - 5th litter of T1 and 1 : 1st litter of T15
  • You have to book from 90th day of the safari date, unlike 45 days of Uttarkhand (Corbett)
  • Famous Attractions:
  • Ken Gharial Sanctuary – Home to gharial crocodiles and turtles
  • Raneh Falls – A stunning natural canyon formed by volcanic rocks
  • Pandav Falls – Mythological connection to the Pandavas from Mahabharata

Why Stay at Aryan Riverside Camp?

Aryan Riverside Camp offers a unique and secluded experience, allowing guests to stay by the Ken River, surrounded by nature and it is only 5 minutes from the Madla Gate.
✔ Quiet and peaceful ambiance, away from the tourist rush


Safari Entry & Exit Timings in Panna Tiger Reserve

🔹 Morning Safari: 6:00 AM - 11:30 AM
🔹 Evening Safari: 3:00 PM - 6:30 PM


Final Thoughts

Panna seems to be very special -  

# breathtaking terrain (part of Vindhya mountain range),  wonderful forest, 

# amazing sighting, safari timing 6.00 -11.30 am  and Evening from 3.00-6.30 am ! 

# No shortened safari timings like Bandipur / Corbett and no booking scam like Corbett - you can enter from Akola gate and come out of Hinota gate/Mandala gate ! 

# No Camera charges unlike Maharashtra. 

# No aggresive rates like Ranthambhore/Bandipur : Car (2500) + Guide fees (500)  + Permit (2500) - for 6 people, per safari is Rs 1000/- per head approx.

And not too far from Kolkata. Nearest station is Satna (Mumbai mail from Howrah at 2340 hrs - no need to rush after office and reach next day at 1630 hrs) is only 45 km from Panna - so lesser distance to be covered and lesser amount to be paid to the pick up car ! 

# Very near Khajuraho (25 Km) and Ajaigarh Fort (40 Km). 

# Nice, good value for money Aryan resort -  just beside Ken River on a 5 Acre land @5,000/- per room for 2 people - all foods - Breakfast+L+E+Dinner included, with packed breakfast - 5 minutes from the main Mandla gate...
# Lot of birds inside the resort itself...আর কি চাই ?



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