Meet the Adventurers
Our group for this thrilling adventure consists of 5 travellers:
- Sourabh (the planner and narrator of this journey)
- Mohua dropped out due to some family exigiency
- Jaideep & Sanchita (joining from CR Park, Delhi, with their own car)
- Sampa
- Soma
- Additionally, Dr Pranab Datta aka Jadu Kaka joined us later from Delhi on March 30, 2025 at Iora Guest House (near Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary) with his family
About Jim Corbett National Park
Jim Corbett National Park, established in 1936 as Hailey National Park, is India's oldest and one of its most prestigious tiger reserves. Located in Uttarakhand, the park spans 1,318 sq. km, including 520 sq. km of core area. It is home to Royal Bengal Tigers, leopards, elephants, gharials, deer species and more than 600 bird species.
The morning safari timing is - 0615-1015 and evening safari timing is 1415-1815
Corbett’s Safari Zones:
The park is divided into 6 major zones:
- Dhikala Zone – The most premium and sought-after zone, known for its vast grasslands, high tiger population, and stunning river views. The rest houses near the Dhangarhi gate are: Sultan > Gairal > Sarpadhuli > Dhikala. Dhikala is furthest from the Dhangarhi gate
- Bijrani Zone – Dense forested area with a mix of sal trees and open meadows.
- Jhirna Zone – Open all year round and known for frequent sloth bear and leopard sightings.
- Dhela Zone – Rich in birdlife, making it a great spot for birdwatching.
- Garjiya Zone – Relatively new, ideal for nature lovers and photographers.
- Durga Devi Zone – A hilly terrain, best for spotting mahseer fish and elephants near the Ramganga River.
Wildlife in Dhikala Zone (Jim Corbett National Park) 🐅🌳
Dhikala is the most biodiverse and sought-after zone in Jim Corbett National Park. The mix of dense forests, riverbanks, and vast grasslands (chaurs) makes it an ideal habitat for a variety of wildlife.
🔹 Mammals Found in Dhikala:
- Royal Bengal Tiger 🐅 – The star attraction, often seen in the grasslands and near water bodies.
- Leopard 🐆 – More elusive than tigers, found in rocky and forested areas.
- Asiatic Elephant 🐘 – Herds frequently roam the Ramganga riverbanks.
- Sloth Bear 🐻 – Sightings are rare, but they do exist in the dense forests.
- Wild Boar 🐗 – Commonly seen, especially near the chaurs.
- Spotted Deer (Chital) 🦌 – The most commonly spotted deer in the park.
- Sambar Deer 🦌 – A preferred prey of tigers, found in denser parts of Dhikala.
- Barking Deer – Shy and solitary, often heard rather than seen.
- Hog Deer – Found mostly in the grasslands of Dhikala.
- Gharial & Mugger Crocodile 🐊 – Seen in the Ramganga River.
- Otters – Playful and often seen near the riverbanks.
🔹 Birds Found in Dhikala: 🦜
Dhikala is a paradise for birdwatchers, with over 600 bird species recorded! Some highlights include:
- Crested Serpent Eagle – Often seen perched on high branches.
- Fish Eagle – Spotted near water bodies.
- Osprey – A migratory bird often seen diving for fish.
- Hornbill – Found in the dense forested areas.
- Ruddy Shelduck – Seen in flocks near the river.
- Changeable Hawk-Eagle – A common raptor.
- Black Stork – Found wading near water sources.
- Kingfishers (Pied, White-throated, Common, and Stork-billed) – Found along the riverbanks.
- Himalayan Griffon Vulture – Seen soaring in the sky.
- Peafowl (Peacock) – A common sight throughout the park.
- Barbet - Lineated, Coppersmith, Blue throated
Why Dhikala zone is Special ?
Dhikala is the largest and most scenic part of Corbett, renowned for its grasslands (chaurs) where tiger sightings are most frequent. It is definitely the most picturesque of all the National Parks in India.
Staying inside the Dhikala Zone is allowed only at forest rest houses (FRHs). There is no private property here.
Day visitors can enter via Canter safari, but they are not allowed to stay overnight. These visitors do not access the core zones, as they mostly stick to the main roads—limiting the chances of significant wildlife sightings.
- People staying in other zones are not allowed to enter Dhikala zone.
- The Ramganga River runs through Dhikala, making it a prime area for wildlife movement.
- This zone is also famous for elephant herds, crocodiles, and raptors/birds of prey.
Sultan/ Gairal / Sarpadhuli Forest Rest House
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Staying at these rest houses gives you early access to core areas—unlike outside lodges.
Hence, if you're not staying at Dhikala FRH, you must return earlier to avoid fines. The main sighting area is Dhikala.
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Food:
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Only vegetarian food is served. Prices: ₹500 (Dhikala), ₹400 (Gairal).
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Personally found it overpriced—e.g., 2 toasted breads with butter and an omelette cost ₹120 at Dhikala!
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Outside food is not allowed.
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Network:
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No mobile network in Dhikala or Gairal (we had Airtel, Jio, BSNL, Vodafone—none worked).
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Only a faint signal exists near one pole in Dhikala.
- The whole tour is booked through Banzaara Travels. Booking safari in Corbett has become a big scam. So we were forced to book through Banzaara Travels. We were in touch with Priyanka - who did everything for us. We paid Rs 120,000 for 6 people for 6 safaris - without food (from Ramnagar to Ramnagar)
📅 Date-Wise Itinerary
🛫 March 27, 2025 – The Journey Begins
00:55 AM – Flight from Kolkata (CCU) to Delhi (T3) via Air India.
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03:25 AM – Arrival in Delhi.
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04:15 AM – Our car (arranged by Banzaara Travels) picked us up. Jaideep and Sanchita joined from Sarai Kale Khan.
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09:00 AM – Breakfast at the well-known (but expensive) Mama Yadav restaurant.
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11:30 AM – After a 6-hour drive, we reached Ramnagar, bought 45 litres of water, parked our car at Ringora, and headed to Dhangarhi gate, where our driver Mushaid was waiting.
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12:30 PM – Completed entry formalities and entered the park.
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01:30 PM – Checked in at Gairal FRH inside Dhikala Zone. We had snacks for lunch.
Gairal FRH: Offers more peace and privacy than Dhikala FRH. Located right next to the Ramganga River—ideal for spotting gharials, otters, and even tigers. Due to dense tree cover, tiger sightings from the rest house are unlikely (unlike Sarpadhuli or possibly Sultan - I have not visited Sultan).
🌿 Evening Safari (02:15 PM – 06:15 PM)
Our first safari in Corbett's wild terrain. We explored dense sal forests, riverbanks, and grasslands.
Dinner: Skipped the overpriced vegetarian meal. Had Maggi, Anda Bhurji, and Bread Omelette instead.
The vegetarian dinner costs Rs 400 ! We were told there is no fan in Gairal. It is not correct. There is no AC, but there is fan. Because of the elevation it is not all cold in Gairal. It was actually quite chilly in the mornings and evenings.
🐾 March 28, 2025 – Into the Heart of Corbett
🐾 March 28, 2025 – Into the Heart of Corbett
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06:15 AM – 10:15 AM – Morning Safari: No tigers, but plenty of birds.The morning was quite cold,even though it was March 28th !
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10:15 AM – 02:15 PM – Break at Dhikala. We didn't return to Gairal to save time. Had a light breakfast at 1030 am and snacks at 1330 pm.
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Snacks counter has reasonably priced items.
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Didn't opt for pricy lunch (₹500) at the main Restaurant
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Relaxed —There is a nice place beside the Dhikala Reception, where we took some rest and had chitchat
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02:15 PM – 06:15 PM – Evening Safari:
08:30 PM Dinner: Skipped again, had Bread omelette and made Maggi in the room.
🐾 March 29, 2025 – Another Day in the Wild
06:15AM - 10:15 AM – Morning Safari. No Tiger sighting - but lot of birds.
🐅 02:15 PM - 06:15 PM – Evening Safari
08:30 PM Dinner: Skipped again, had Bread omelette and made Maggi in the room.
🐾 March 30, 2025 – Final Safari & Transfer to Bharatpur
06:15 AM – 10:15 AM – Last Morning Safari
Our final chance to experience the morning wilderness of Corbett. Although we didn’t spot any tigers, we saw plenty of birds. I spotted the Coppersmith Barbet, Lineated Barbet, and Blue-throated Barbet.
We had to rush back to Gairal and didn’t have the option to stop at Dhikala. Unfortunately, our vehicle had a mechanical issue today, and the driver, Mushaid, took some time to fix it—so our safari time got shortened.
We were told there was a tiger sighting near Gairal FRH, so we hurried back, but unfortunately, we didn’t see it.
11:00 AM – Check-out from Gairal FRH
12:00 PM – Reached Ringora
At this point, our group split into two: Sampadi and I continued on to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, while Didi (Soma) returned to Delhi with Jaideep and Sanchita. Didi will catch her 9:00 PM flight from Delhi to Kolkata. She skipped Bharatpur as she’s leaving for Ladakh on April 3, 2025.
I made a mistake while booking our car to Bharatpur—it’s near Agra. I mistakenly selected the date as 30.04 instead of 30.03!
13:45 PM
Anyway, our trusted Gozocab managed to arrange a car within 1 hour 45 minutes. It will take us to Bharatpur (about 320 km) on an 8-hour journey. The charge was around ₹7,300.
23:10 PM – Arrival in Bharatpur & Check-in at the hotel. Jadu Kaka was waiting for us in the hotel. We had our dinner at Iora Guest House, while Jadu Kaka was giving us company !
Tony, Tapul and Spriha (and Jadu Kaka) had also arrived for the safari in their own car. They were resting in their room. The distance from Delhi to Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary by road is 220 km (via Yamuna Expressway and Agra Highway), with a travel time of 4–5 hours, depending on traffic.
Bharatpur, also known as Keoladeo Ghana National Park, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest bird sanctuaries in the world. Spread over 29 sq. km, it is renowned for its wetlands, marshes, and forests, attracting migratory birds from as far as Siberia, Central Asia, and Europe.
The park is very well-maintained and tourist-friendly. There is no need for advance booking—we booked our visit on the spot. The sanctuary hosts both water birds and land birds, with different zones catering to each terrain type. I had the wrong impression that it was only home to water birds.
Only 4 people can travel in an e-rickshaw. Just as a gypsy is to a national park, the e-rickshaw is the preferred mode of transport inside Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. There are also buggy carts (which can accommodate more than 6 people) and horse carts available.
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Entry fee: ₹155 for Indians
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E-rickshaw rental (3 hours): ₹1,200
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Guide charges: Approximately ₹1,200 (hiring a guide is not mandatory)
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Bicycle rental: ₹150 for 3 hours
Key Birds in Bharatpur:
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Siberian Crane – The rarest winter visitor (now extremely rare)
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Painted Stork – Seen in large numbers, nesting in trees
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Great White Pelican – Found in flocks near water bodies
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Bar-headed Goose – Migrates from Central Asia
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Spot-billed Duck – A resident species
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Eurasian Spoonbill – Found wading in shallow waters
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Black-necked Stork – Rare but striking
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Indian Cormorant & Little Cormorant – Frequently seen fishing
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Common Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher – Often seen near water bodies
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Purple Heron & Grey Heron – Common in marshy areas
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Night Heron – Active during dusk and dawn
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Sarus Crane – The tallest flying bird in the world, often seen in pairs
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Indian Roller – Known for its dazzling blue feathers
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Oriental Darter (Snake Bird) – Often seen swimming with only its head above water
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Greater Flamingo – Occasionally spotted in the shallower lakes
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Raptors (Marsh Harrier, Steppe Eagle, Tawny Eagle) – Seen hunting in open areas
Mammals Found in Bharatpur:
Though mainly known for its birdlife, Bharatpur is also home to several mammals:
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Golden Jackal – Frequently seen along the dirt tracks
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Nilgai (Blue Bull) – The largest antelope in India, commonly seen grazing
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Rhesus Macaque & Langur Monkeys – Often seen near temple areas
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Indian Porcupine – Nocturnal and rarely spotted
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Indian Python – Occasionally seen basking in the sun
🐦 March 31, 2025 – Exploring Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary
06:30 AM – Early morning at Keoladeo National Park (Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary), spotting migratory birds like Pelicans, painted storks, Spotted Owl, Copper smith Barbet by an e rickshaw. We saw a King Cobra.
We had our lunch at Iora Guest house.
3:00 PM – 6:00 PM – This afternoon, we once again explored the park and enjoyed a peaceful rickshaw ride through Bharatpur’s beautiful wetlands. Tapul chose to ride a rented e-cycle. Sampa Di did not join us for the evening safari.
We had our dinner at Iora Guest House.
🚗 April 1, 2025 – Left for Delhi via Fatehpur Sikri and Taj Mahal
10:30 AM – We left for Delhi. Fatehpur Sikri is only 25 km from Bharatpur, so we decided to visit it on the way. There was a huge crowd at Fatehpur Sikri due to Salim Chishti’s Mazar, as it was just after Eid. Due to time constraints, we had to skip Sikandra.
Next, we visited Itmad-ud-Daulah, also known as the Baby Taj, which is considered a prototype of the Taj Mahal. The entry fee is ₹30.
After that, we had lunch at McDonald’s, and then proceeded to visit the Taj Mahal. The entry fee is ₹50, but if you want to go up to the elevated platform near the minaret, there is an additional charge of ₹200. Previously, there was no extra fee, but I was told the new government has imposed it.
To know more about the history of this place , read https://www.bomadg.in/search/label/Agra
9:30 PM – We reached Jadu Kaka’s house in Vasant Kunj, had dinner there, and left for the airport by Uber around 12:00 AM. We were late, but somehow managed to check in at the airport.
🛫 April 2, 2025 – The Final Goodbye
02:00 AM – Our Air India flight departs from Delhi Airport.
04:15 AM – We land in Kolkata, officially concluding our thrilling adventure.