Tour diary
9.10.16. Rome
10.10.16. Rome
11.10.16. Rome-Vatican
12.10.16 Rome/Florence
13.10.16 Florence
14.10.16. Florence - Chianti
15.10.16 Florence-Pisa/Venice
16.10.16. Venice
17.10.16. Venice-Murano-Burano
18.10.16. Venice/Milan
Before reaching Rome, I have heard that in Italy, you need to know only two languages: Italian and Bengali. I never knew it is not a joke ! It is actually true !
I got to know from the Italian driver (after reaching Rome) of the travel company that, their hotel is not near Roma Termini. So I cannot get a lift ! I was sensing the opportunity, that I might get a free lift , since many seats are vacant! After getting down at the airport, I met a Bangladeshi who dropped somebody at the airport. Since they were going back, I made a deal, they will drop us at the hotel at the fare I would have paid to the Roma Metro rail. I paid them 20 Euro for two of us ! Our hotel in Via Calatafimi is around 7-8 minutes walk from Via Marshala (Via or phonetically Veeaa means road) exit of Roma Termini (Rail station cum Metro rail station).
After getting down from the Taxi, after some effort we found our hostel. To our surprise we found, the song "Coffee house er sei addata ar nei " by Manna Dey, is being played there !! The hostel is owned by Bangladeshis !! We were put up in a room two blocks away from that building. There is a kitchen too. We were told that there are some Bangladeshi restaurants nearby - where we can have reasonably cheap food for the dinner.
On the way to the restaurant we saw a departmental store owned by Bangladeshis. Nayeem and Milan sit at night. We bought some food for tomorrow's breakfast. It is open till 1 am.
Situated on the river Tiber, between the Apennine mountains and the Tyrr-henian Sea (it is on the West of Italy, while Mediterranean sea is on its South), the "Eternal City" was once the administrative centre of the mighty Roman Empire, ruling over a vast territory that stretched all the way from Portugal Spaint/Britain to Turkey, Armenia, Mesopotamia ( Modern day Iraq is a name for the area around the Tigris–Euphrates river; in modern days roughly corresponding to most of Iraq plus Kuwait, the eastern parts of Syria, South-eastern Turkey. Babylon was a major city of ancient Mesopotamia in the fertile plain between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. South Mesopotamia was called Sumer and North Eastern part of Sumer was called Babylon ), Syria, Jordan, Palestine, Israel, Norther part of Africa (part of Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Algeria and Volubilis in Morocco). Morocco is the extreme West of their territory. I am fortunate enough to see Roman ruins of Volubilis in Morocco.
The ruins of Ninevah, the capital of ancient Assyria, is a city in modern Iraq. Damascus, the capital of Syria, was originally the capital of Aram/Syria.
Ashur or Aššur is an East Semitic God, and the head of the Assyrian pantheon (i.e. all the gods of a people or religion collectively) in Mesopotamian religion, worshipped mainly in the northern half of Mesopotamia, and parts of north-east Syria and south east Asia Minor (Turkey) which constituted old Assyria.
Aššur was a deified form of the city of Assur (pronounced Ashur) was the capital of the Old Assyrian kingdom. The city of Ashur, named in honour of the deity, was inhabited until the 14th century, when a massacre of Assyrian Christians by Tamurlane left it finally emptied. Ashur is still a common given and family name amongst Assyrians to this day.
It is interesting here to note that , Haug pioneered the idea that the term Asura is linguistically related to the Ahuras of Indo-Iranian people and pre-Zoroastrianism era. In both religions, Ahura of pre-Zoroastrianism (Asura of Hinduism), Vouruna (Varuna) and Daeva (Deva) are found, but their meanings are on opposite. While the ahura evolved to represent the good in pre-Zoroastrianism, Asura evolved to represent the bad in Vedic religion; while Deva evolved to represent the bad in pre-Zoroastrianism, while Deva evolves to represent the good in Vedic religion.
To know more about Seven hills, read later in the article.
This settlement developed into the capital of the Roman Kingdom, led by a series of Etruscan kings, before becoming the seat of the Roman Republic in 509 BC when the despotic king was overthrown by the Romans and Rome became a Republic.
The origins of the Etruscans are mostly lost in pre-history, although Greek historians repeatedly associated the Tyrr-henians (name of the sea on the West of Italy is Tyrrhenia) with Pelas-gians. Diony-sius records a Pelasgian migration from Thessaly in Greek to the Italian Peninsula. They settled near modern day Tuscany.
Soon after becoming a republic the city of Rome took to the policy of Conquest to Carthage. Carthage in the modern day Tunisia in North Africa, built a powerful empire much earlier than Romans . In the first Punic war (Romans called Carthaginian Punici) between Romans and Carthage over Sicily, Carthage was defeated. They set the city of Carthage on fire and sold thousands of Carthaginians as slave. Hannibal Barca was a Carthaginian general, considered one of the greatest military commanders in history. His father Hamilcar Barca was the leading Carthaginian commander during the First Punic War.
In the early period of Roman history, Roman society was divided into 2 classes: Patricians (aristocrats) and Plebeians (workers). Patricians were owners of best plots of land. Plebeians were deprived of all rights. After the revolt, against the Patricians, they were forced to give some right to the Plebeians.
At the time of Roman Republic, slavery was in vogue in Roman Society. After conquering large number of countries a large number of slaves were collected from those countries. They were state property and were employed in mining, road building etc. They were sold in the market. Patricians and Plebeians purchased them and employed them in agriculture. The slaves were exploited like anything. Absolute dependence on the slaves led to the moral decay of the Romans. Fight between gladiators and between a gladiator and a wild animal became a very popular. In Rome Gladiators were those slaves who were professional wrestlers. On holidays the gladiator show used to take place in amphitheatre (Colosseum). Slave uprising took place at the end of 2nd century BC. The most important slave revolt was that led by a slave called Spartacus. The fight between Patricians and Plebeians & slave uprising weakened the republic and enhanced the power of Army leaders.
After losing the 48 BC Battle of Pharsalus in Greece against his rival Julius Caesar in Caesar's Civil War, the Roman statesman Pompey fled to Egypt, a Roman client state. The Cleopatra and Julius Caesar connection was formed when Julius Caesar fled to Egypt in pursuit of his enemy Pompey.Pompey has already been executed by the Egyptians.
Julius Caesar is smitten by the woman delivered through a carpet; it is smuggled through Alexandria and is presented as a gift for the Roman leader . Cleopatra is then about 21 or 22 years old. Julius Caesar immediately recognized the potential of being lovers and allies.
The relationship could have been for love among any other. However, there are also political agenda behind the union. They are both leaders of influential and powerful nations. They have people under them, armies that could fight battles and win them. Both Rome and Egypt needs intellectual leaders.
Specifically, for Cleopatra’s side, she saw how a Caesar’s fleet could easily return her to power which he eventually did. Julius Caesar killed Cleopatra’s brother and husband, Ptolemy XIII when his army drove them away only to drown in the Nile. This was during the Alexandrian War. Julius Caesar made sure that Cleopatra is firm in her position as the leader of Egypt.
For Julius Caesar, the union will unite two great lands, Egypt and Rome. He has an ultimate dream that his children would someday rule this land. Julius Caesar could have also seen Alexandria as a strategic location for his battles and as time pass by, Egypt could also form a powerful army to help him in his conquests.
Cleopatra, though said to still be in love Julius Caesar, married her younger brother, Ptolemy XIV, to return her rule over Egypt. However, she was also married to Julius Caesar because Egypt allows polygamy. Cleopatra and Julius Caesar spent time in Alexandria. The Roman leader, however, is called for to lead his army to battles. He emerged victorious but returned to Rome instead.
Julius Caesar and Cleopatra also had a son, Caesarion. Julius Caesar brought his wife to Rome, with the great surprise of the Roman people. Out of respect for Julius Caesar, the people did not really give much attention to the fact that Julius Caesar married a foreign woman, albeit having a Roman wife . However, Caesar maintained a private affair with Cleopatra and produced a son, Caesarion (Ptolemy XV). Cleopatra traveled to Rome as a client queen in 46 and 44 BC, staying at Caesar's villa.
Some influential person of Rome were dissatisfied with the growing power of Caesar. To preserve democracy a battle of conspirators under the leadership of Brutus and Cassius assassinated Julius Caesar. After his death in 44 BC, civil war started in Rome and consequently Republic in Rome was replaced by emperors.
When Caesar was assassinated in 44 BC, Cleopatra attempted to have Caesarion named as his heir, but this fell instead to Caesar's grandnephew Octavian (known as Augustus by 27 BC, when he became the first Roman emperor).
When Cleopatra learnt that Octavian planned to bring her to Rome for his triumphal procession, she committed suicide by poisoning, the popular belief being that she was bitten by an asp.
Rome empire under Julius Caesar 44 BC- source : wikipedia |
Rome again became the centre of the Roman Empire from 27 BC to 285 AD. After the assassination of Caesar in 44 BC the power passed into the hand of Octavian, Caesar's grand nephew, who became sole ruler of Roman empire. He assumed the title of Augustus . It is he who was the first emperor of the Roman empire. He was born in 63 BC and died in 14 AD.
(https://www.scholaradvisor.com/essay-examples/cleopatra-relationships/)
Roman imperial dynasties | |||
Chronology | |||
Augustus | 27 BC – 14 AD | ||
Tiberius | 14–37 AD | ||
Caligula | 37–41 AD | ||
Claudius | 41–54 AD | ||
Nero | 54–68 AD |
Beginning with the reign of Constantine I (306-337), the Bishop of Rome (later known as the Pope) gained political and religious importance, establishing the city as the centre of the Catholic Church. The city was sacked by the barbarians, first in 410 and again in 455; after the fall of the Western Roman Empire in AD 476 the city withstood a siege by the Ostrogoths in AD 537 and a Saracen raid in AD 846, followed by its capture by the Normans in 1084.For almost a 1000 years, Rome was the largest, wealthiest, most powerful city in the Western world, with dominance over most of Europe and the Mediterranean Sea. Even after the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476 AD, Rome maintained considerable importance and wealth.
The city recovered quickly and in the following 200 years, it became the centre of Baroque architecture; renowned artists such as Michelangelo, Bernini and Caravaggio worked there while the new St. Peter's Basilica was begun in 1506, only to be completed in 1626.
During the latter stages of the French Revolution - more precisely, in 1798 - local revolutionaries inspired by the new ideals rose against Papal authority and a Roman Republic was declared; the Pope was forced to flee and the following year troops from the Kingdom of Naples entered the city, thus putting an end to the revolutionary movement.
It is important to note that the per capita GDP of Italy of USD 30,000 is lower than major countries of Europe (e.g. USD 42,000 for Germany or USD 40,000 for UK) and the Italian economy is not in very good shape (Though 16 times more than India at USD 1850). So without any doubt price of everything in Italy will be more expensive. The population of Italy is around 60 Million or 6 Crore. The currency is Euro. The area of Italy at 300,000 sq km is little more than 3 times the size of West Bengal.
Rome's Leonardo Da Vinci International Airport is also called Fiumicino (fee-yoo-mee-chee-no) airport simply because it is located in a town called Fiumicino 35 kms from Roma. It is a large and a very busy airport and the town of Fiumicino itself is a coastal town - just beside Tyrrhenian sea.
Once we got out of the Jet Bridge, we started following the crowd hoping they would lead us directly to immigration or baggage collection but surprisingly the crowd led us into a "room"... We followed (we were lost really cause English had suddenly become almost non-existent) and then the doors of the "room" closed and the room started moving! The "room" was actually a very fast train....So yeah the Fiumicino Airport has a train running between the "Arrival area" of the airport and the "real" part of the Airport. We alighted from the train and we were immediately in front of the baggage claim belt.
By now loud Ciaos and Ciao Belles could be heard and I made a mental note of finding out the difference between the two.
Note:
Ciao-Hello or Goodbye
Ciao Belle - Hello/Goodbye Beautiful
After baggage collection, we got our immigration done and we were finally on our own...
Since Fiumicino is a little distance away from Rome, there are a couple of ways of getting to the Roma Termini. You could take a bus (70 - 90 mins travel time) OR a regional train (includes a train change) or take the Leonardo Express (dedicated, non-stop, fast train that runs between the Airport and Roma Termini).
## Leonardo Express is a First Class Compartments and hence if you are carrying a 2nd Class Euro Rail Pass, it will not work and you will still have to buy tickets for the train.
Get around
Roma Pass
If you'll be staying in Rome for at least 3 days, consider purchasing the Roma Pass. It costs €36 (or €28 for a 48 hour pass) and entitles holders to free admission to the first 2 museums and/or archaeological sites visited, full access to public transportation, reduced tickets and discounts for any other following museums (that are included in the programme - e.g., the Vatican Museums are not included). Considering everything (since I stayed only 3 days) I decided not to buy the Roma pass.
We purchased Bus/ Metro pass from tobacco shop (Tabaccheria) on the side walks.
Tickets
Tickets must be bought from a tobacco shop - look for the big 'T' sign, these shops are plentiful , or from a news stand before you board the bus, Metro or tram. Metro stops and bus terminals all have automated ticket kiosks, and major Metro stations have clerked ticket windows. But we bought everything from the Tabaccheria. Please note that the whole public transportation network uses the same kind of tickets. A single-ride ticket costs - € 1.50 : you can change buses, trams on one journey; valid for 100 minutes. When you board the bus or Metro you must time-stamp your ticket in the little yellow machine For a daily ticket (€6) to be worth it, you would have to make 5 or more trips at intervals greater than 100 minutes apart on a single day.
Night buses could be useful due to the closing of the Metro stations at 23:30 and the stopping of regular lines of buses and trams at midnight.
HO-HO Buses
A popular alternative to city and pre-planned tour buses are the hop-on/hop-off buses; open-top double-deckers. There are apparently seven different companies. An all-day ticket runs about €18/20, can be purchased as you board at any stop. After lot of discussion with my wife, I decided not to buy it, since it won't be economic for our short stay.
There are also some Regional train lines connecting Rome with other Italian cities and towns. But they take more time to reach the destination because of the number of stops where they stop. I used this train from Venice to Milan.
Tip:
2. Carabinieri (Military trained police to fight organized crimes)
3. Guardia Di Finanza (Military trained police under the ministry of finances, part of Europol, used as riot police and anti-fraud police)
4. Polizia Di Municipale (generally regulate traffic and also work again petty crimes like pick-pocketing etc)
Non so Italiano (I'm not Italian ) is an useful word to know in Italy
{Almost all the Italicized texts here under "Get In and Get around" are taken from a wonderful site : isimplylovemakeup.com}
Line C operates from 05:30 to 23:30.
Old Rome
The Renaissance-era centre of the city, with beautiful squares/piazza, cathedrals, the Pantheon includes piazza Navona, piazza Campo de' Fiori, and the (former) Jewish Ghetto.
Vatican
The independent Vatican City and its endless treasure troves of sights, relics and the Vatican Museums.
Colosseo
The heart of ancient Rome, the Colosseum, the Capitoline hill and its museums.
North Centre
Situated in the northern part of Rome, it is home to the Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps.
Trastevere
The charming district south of the Vatican, on the west bank of the Tiber, full of narrow cobbled streets and lonely squares that served as the inspiration for artists such as Giorgio de Chirico. Now arguably the centre of Rome's artistic life.
South
Home to the Appian Way park, several catacombs, Fascist monumental architecture.
Ostia
A Roman district (not a separate town!) with a view to the sea and several beach resorts. Home to the ruins of Ostia antica, ancient Rome's harbour. It is one of the best kept secrets in all of Italy. It is not very far from Fiumicino airport.
Churches in Rome deny admission to people who are dressed inappropriately; you will find "fashion police" at the most visited churches ("knees and shoulders" are the main problem - especially female ones). Bare shoulders, short skirts, and shorts are officially not allowed, but long shorts and skirts reaching just above the knee should generally be no problem...however, it's always safer to wear longer pants or skirts that go below the knee; St. Peter's in particular is known for rejecting tourists for uncovered knees, shoulders, midriffs, etc.
Flea markets
Pizza
Pizza al taglio is pizza with a thicker crust and cooked in a large pan. It is served by the piece - usually to take away - and is a good, cheap way to get something to fill you up: point to the one you want and indicate if you want more or less than your server is indicating with the knife. Unlike Naples, pizza al taglio here is sold by weight (the listed price is usually per 100 gm, known in Italian as an un etto, a hectogram). Pizzerie al taglio (places selling pizza by the slice) are the city's very own equivalent of a fast-food joint and pretty much like the fish and chips shops in the UK, they're a cornerstone of Roman life. Lasagne is another thing which is found everywhere.Pizza al taglio helped us to keep our expense within budget and was our saviour !
As a rule, you should pretty much never carry anything very valuable in any outside pocket . As in any other big city, it is better if you don't look like a tourist as far as possible. Though I was scared of pickpockets nothing of that sort happened to me ! Also, beware of thieves — they will use the old trick of one person trying to distract you (asking for a cigarette or doing a strange dance) while another thief picks your pockets from behind. Bands of kids will sometimes crowd you and reach for your pockets under the cover of newspapers or cardboard sheets. It is generally a good idea to be extremely wary of any strange person who gets too close to you. If someone is in your personal space, shove the person away. Termini (the main railway station), the central stops of the Metro and Trevi fountain are well-known for pickpockets, so take extra care in these areas.
10/10/2016
We had a nice kitchen in our apartment with stove, and free salt and oil. We had breakfast at our apartment with bread, egg and butter.Today our plan is to go to Roman forum and Colosseum.With the help of a Bangladeshi, we bought the metro tickets from the Tobacco shop on the sidewalk and took a metro to go to Colosseo metro station. Always start at the Roman Forum instead of the Colosseum. There is rarely a line at the Roman Forum. Pick up or purchase your tickets there and when you are done with Roman forum, you can skip the line at the Colosseum, since you already have your ticket (One ticket entitles you to visit both the places). The Roman Forum has no shade, so bring an umbrella or hat in the summer.
The Roman Forum were the most powerful seat of government in the world. The Forum is much less crowded than the Colosseum and, from a historical perspective, much more interesting. To stand in the political, legal and religious centre of the whole Roman Empire brings shivers down one's spine. It is the best way of imagining the splendour and glory of ancient Rome.
Located in a small valley between the Capitoline and Palatine hills, access to the Forum is by foot only just in front of Colosseum. The Forum is often less crowded than the neighbouring Colosseum, but holds even more history. It is open from 09:00 and closes depending upon winter/summer time. The ticket costs €12 and is valid for two days and includes entrance to the Colosseum and Palatine Hill as well. It is possible to hire an audio guide for €4, just like any other important place in Italy.
The important structures inside the Roman Forum are : 1.the Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina (Tempio di Antonio e Faustina) - built in 141 AD 2. the Basilica Aemilia - completed in 179 BC the Curia (Senate House) 3. the Lapis Niger (Black Stone) 4. the Arch of Septimius Severus 5. the Temple of Saturn (Tempio di Saturno) 6. the Temple of Julius Caesar (Tempio di Giulio Caesar) - finished in 29 BC, marks the spot of Caesar's spontaneous cremation and Mark Antony's funeral speech, made famous by Shakespeare in his play Julius Caesar ("Friends, Romans, Countrymen, lend me your ears...." ) 7. the Arch of Titus - built in 81 AD by the emperor Domition in dedication to his brother Titus, who died earlier that year and reigned as emperor from 79-81, overseeing the opening of the Colosseum in 80 and the eruption of Mt Vesuvius the previous year.
After spending around 3 hours, we left for Colosseum. It is just beside Roman Forum. But even if you skip the line because you are already having the ticket bought from Roman Forum, still there is big queue because of security check (read ISIS) for entering Colosseum.
It was originally known as Flavian Amphitheatre. Originally capable of seating some 50,000 spectators for animal fights and gladiatorial combats, the amphitheatre was a project started by the Emperor Vespasian in 72 AD and completed by his son Titus in the 80 AD (124 years after the death of Julius Caesar). The Colosseum when completed measured 48 m high, 188 m in length, and 156 m in width. The wooden arena floor was 86 m by 54 m, and covered by sand. Expect a long queue and an even longer wait.
When we finished the Colosseum tour it is already late. Just in front of Colosseum or Colosseo is Arch of Constantine. This well-preserved monumental arch was erected to commemorate the victory of
Constantine, the first Christian emperor, over his rival Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312.
We bought some souvenirs of Colosseo from the Bangladeshis. They guided us towards the metro. We took the metro from Colosseo Metro station to go to Termini Station, near our hotel.
Today we ate Pizza by slice from the same restaurant.
Today our plan is to go to Vatican and Vatican museum. Just in front of our hostel there is a road
where a morning market takes place. There we met a Bengali from West Bengal - who incidentally
knows famous Tabla player Sanjay Kangshabanki, who stays in Rome ( whom I met in Kolkata just
before our tour to Italy).
at Take Metro line A to the "Ottaviano - S. Pietro - Musei Vaticani". First we went to see Vatican
museum. There is a reason for that. You must buy the ticket online to skip the line. I did not buy it. Basically I was guided by some blogs which says during off season time there wont be a queue. Actually we stood in the line for more than 2 hours. So don't do it ! If you find yourself in
Rome without a reservation for the Vatican Museums and facing the typical 3-hour line, don’t worry
you can pay (double the normal entry fee) to skip the line. You will find many Bangladeshis hawking tours and a “skip the
line” pass. They sell them for double the price. They were charging only 29 Euro from us instead of
customary 33 Euro for "skip the line"- but it is still better than wasting 3 hours of your day. But I
decided not to buy it at 58 Euro, for two people, at the beginning of my Italian tour. I chatted with the
Bangladeshi Bhai while we were waiting in the line.
The main problem with online booking is, it is for a particular day and time - I was not sure about my
exact date when I will go to Vatican, I like to keep everything open ended.
Non-guided visitors should join the queue. Always check if there is actually a queue before getting
a guide on the street to skip it; many guides will tell you that there is a huge queue ahead even when
there is none or a short one. Two hour English tours cost €33 and includes museum admission.
The Vatican Museum and St Peter Basilica
Accessing the Sistine Chapel requires walking through many other (spectacular) halls and buildings (including the Raphael's Rooms). Sistine chapel comes last. Normal it starts with the section with Statutes.
Also, be aware that it is not allowed to take pictures or to talk loudly in the Sistine Chapel . After that you have to come out and again stand in the queue to enter the St Peter's Basilica for another 3 hours line !
So without any hassle we got into the St Peter's Basilica.
After spending some time in St Peter's Basilica we left for the metro station.
To know more read : www.telegraph.co.uk-the-TreviFountain/ |
Then I took a bus to reach Termini. Today I had dinner at a nice restaurant. I had Pasta Carbonara. But it was not that good. After coming back to our hostel I saw Mohua already there, long back.
We went to the Termini walking. My train (fast) is at 11.35 am and my scheduled arrival in Firenze (that is how Italians refer to Florence) - Santa Maria Novella Station (Main station) is at 1.07 pm. But our train was late by 1 hour ! Even we had to change the scheduled Binario (as told by an Italian - Binario otto) or Platform no. 8, at the last moment. The word binario is very important if you are travelling by train. My little knowledge of Spanish also helped. The slow train would have taken double the time at a lower fare. I paid 24.90 Euro. Again at the station a Bangladeshi vendor helped us to reach the platform in no time. Like India I had to wait for the electronics board to announce the platform. It was bilingual.
He was there selling bus tickets at the Roma Termini and guided me to the right platform, as I was late ! |
Book these tickets well in advance for the lowest prices (from €17!) directly from Trenitalia, the national railway. (By the way, don’t be confused, if you type “Florence” into the search and nothing comes up. You need to search for “Roma” to “Firenze”.)
The language they speak in Italy is also largely the language of Florence. Dante,who is from Florence, is often considered as the father of modern Italian language. Dante wrote Divine comedy in local Florentine language spoken by the residents of Florence (instead of Latin and shocked the world) ,which language became the basis of modern Italian language.He considered Latin an elitist language. It is often said that Italian language is the most beautiful language since the Italian intellectuals handpicked the most beautiful of all the local dialects and crowned it Italian...for the longest time Italy wasn't even a country. It was unified in 1861. Parts of Italy belonged to France, parts to Spain, parts to church. So a scientist in Florence could barely communicate with a poet in Sicily or a merchant in Venice (except Latin of course, which was considered a national language). The reason being there was no one Italian language during the time of Dante.Today what we call French is essentially medieval Parisian, Portuguese is Lisboan and Spanish is Madrileno. That is not the case in case of Italian (Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert).
After reaching the station, we walked for 8-10 minutes to reach our hostel. While walking you can admire the recently renovated square with its beautiful Santa Maria Novella Church very near to the Train Station. The church's facade in white and green marble was designed by Leon Battista Alberti while the stunning Tornabuoni Chapel inside has frescoes by Ghirlandaio - a must see!
Pitti Palace, is a vast, mainly Renaissance, palace in Florence, Italy. It is quite different from what we saw in Vatican museum. It is situated on the south side of the River Arno, a short distance from the Ponte Vecchio. The core of the present palazzo dates from 1458 and was originally the town residence of Luca Pitti, an ambitious Florentine banker. The building was sold in 1549 by uonaccorso Pitti, a descendant of Luca Pitti to the Medici family and became the chief residence of the ruling families of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. It grew as a great treasure house as later generations amassed paintings, plates, jewelry and luxurious possessions.In the late 18th century, the palazzo was used as a power base by Napoleon,and later served for a brief period as the principal royal palace of the newly united Italy. The palazzo is now the largest museum complex in Florence.The construction of this building was commissioned in 1458 by the Florentine banker Luca Pitti, a principal supporter and friend of Cosimo de' Medici.
To know more read https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palazzo_Pitti |
We skipped the garden due to lack of time and extra entry fees that needs to be paid for that. After that we left for Ponte Vecchio. It is near Pitti Palace. It is Florence's most celebrated landmark. The Ponte Vecchio or literally, the "old bridge" connected the Arno river banks exactly at this point since the 12th century! During World War II, it was the only bridge across the Arno that the fleeing Germans did not destroy. The Ponte Vecchio is lined with shops, traditionally mostly jewellers, since the days of the Medici. Butchers initially occupied the shops.
In the piazza itself one can admire Neptune's Fountain by Ammannati and the equestrian statue of Cosimo I by Giambologna.
While we were sitting there in the Piazza della Signoria - we met Ubai on his way back from Uffizi gallery. We chatted for quite some time. People from Sudan (like Sub Saharan part) are quite different from South Sudan. After a long war South Sudan became a nation in 2011. North of Sudan is Egypt. He is a dentist by profession and came to Bologna for learning dental implant. On his way back he decided to see Florence. His wife (also a dentist) is a great fan of India and Bollywood. She has some Turkish blood also. Ubai told me she is very modern and does not wear hijab. Ubai himself is very modern and left minded. I learnt on 28th January his wife delivered a baby. We are still in touch. He invited me to his home in Sudan. May be some time ! Khartoum is a very modern city. To know more of Sudan click here :
https://www.youtube.com
Today we started our day with the famous Piazza del Duomo. Piazza del Duomo is in the heart of Florence. The majestic Duomo or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its famous cupola or dome by Brunelleschi, is an engineering feat of the Renaissance. The Campanile or Bell Tower, in Florence, is part of the Duomo complex, which includes the (Duomo) and the Baptistery. After the Duomo, the Campanile is one of the most recognizable buildings in Florence. It is 278 feet high and offers fine views of the Duomo and of Florence.
From the top of bell tower or Campanile one can admire an incredible view of the city. Since our time was limited, I went up to the top of Duomo/cathedral . Climbing so many stares is not such an easy thing. It is pretty exhausting to be honest.
After going inside the church, I got to know why Italian marble is so famous and why wife's grandmother used to boast " we have Italian Marble " !!
If you go around the back of the church, there is a separate entrance to the Medici chapels , final resting place for the Medici dynasty where you'll find 9 amazingly beautiful marble statues by Michelangelo . Some of them are really stunning. Especially Duke of Urbino and Duke of Nemours.
I considered myself quite lucky to be present there.
Due to lack of time we could not go to Uffizi gallery. Right next to Palazzo Vecchio is the Uffizi Gallery, It is one of Italy's top museums and one of the most important in the world with its large collection of Renaissance masterpieces such as the Allegory of Spring and the Birth of Venus by Botticelli, just to name two of its incredible collection. If you want to go to the Uffizi Gallery, you should buy Uffizi tickets online ahead of time, as there is most often a long line outside.
One of the famous companies which conducts this tour is https://www.viator.com
Our first stop is San Gimignano. It is a very nice quaint town. San Gimignano, renowned for its "medieval skyscrapers", high walls and narrow streets that typify most peoples image of a Tuscan hill town. San Gimignano is unique in the preservation of about a dozen of its tower houses, which, with its hilltop setting and encircling walls, form an unforgettable skyline.
Palio race takes place here |
Inside a contrada |
Oldest bank in the world in continuous operation is in Siena - Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena founded in 1472 |
Each Contrada is governed by a Council, which is democratically elected every two, three and sometimes four years. The Council is called Seggio or Sedia. The most senior member of the Council is called the Priore Capo della Contrada and he is assisted by a secretary known as the Vicario Generale. All matters concerning the Palio are managed by an elected Capitano, who is assisted by two Tenenti or Mangini.
It is generally agreed that the Contrade are a derivation of the Compagnie Militari in which the city was divided for the organisation of its militia. Each Contrada took part in the public events held in Piazza del Campo with a procession and allegorical carts representing exotic animals such as the panther, the giraffe, the eagle, the leocorn etc.
The existing boundaries between the Contrade were laid down in an edict issued in 1730 by the then governor of Siena, Beatrice Violante of Baviera. This was an important step in that within its boundaries each Contrada is empowered to conduct the so-called questua to gather funds for the public feasts in Piazza del Campo.
It is important to understand that every Sienese is first of all a member of his Contrada, which becomes a second family and the place where he conducts all his everyday activities.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contrade_of_Siena
http://www.sienaonline.com/palio_of_siena_contrade.html
http://www.initaly.com/regions/museums/palio.htm
Our next stop is unique location in the Chianti (pronounced as Keeanti) countryside to enjoy wine tastings. Chianti is an area of Tuscany, Italy made famous by the red wine of the same name. It has much to offer for a visitor interested in wine, food and natural beauty. Many of the wineries are open for a tour and a tasting and some offer accommodation services as well. Once we hop off the bus, we were be guided to the splendid estate ; here we were introduced to the estate's fascinating history and background inside the wine cellar. Then we tasted Chianti Classico wine and some snacks (salami and Cheese). We had tasted three types of wine. After the tasting we were escorted to the counter where you can buy some wine, salami and cheese. You can pay with your cards. The estates is in the middle of nowhere. I went inside the vineyard to take some photo. Unfortunately grapes were already plucked few days back. We were the only Indians in that tour. The guide in the estate speaks very good English and really knows how to present everything. We read there are many Airbnb homestays here. We plan to stay here someday for a fortnight !
On the way back we got down at a market in Greaves, Chianti region to have our snacks. At that place I saw the statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano - he was an Italian explorer who charted the Atlantic coast of North America between the Carolinas and Newfoundland, including New York Harbor in 1524. The Verrazano – Narrows Bridge in New York was named after him.
It would not be out of place to include my Italian friend Isabella's detailed dos and don't of Italian food here. It helped me a lot and used it as a bible throughout my tour. I am reproducing it in verbatim
Food: the Primo will fill you up and is generally the least expensive dish, pasta of all sorts with different sauces (pasta type and sauce can vary according to the region, but you always find the best-sellers on every menu, like pasta con Pomodoro e basilico, Pasta alla carbonara, Pasta All'amatriciana, Pasta alla Bolognese). I had almost all of them.(Note that on the menu you generally do not see Pasta but the specific type of it, like spaghetti, fusilli, conchiglie, linguine etc)
Primo can also be a Risotto, that is rice cooked with a sauce (very very different from the Indian rice), definitely try it once, the Venetians make very good Risotto. (In fact I,yours truly, had one in Venice - which is nice)
Also you should try Polenta (made with corn flour), the Venetians use it a lot, it will be presented with some meat, so it will be more in the Secondi section (second dish, that is meat or fish with vegs). [I, yours truly, had Polenta in Florence. I did not find it exceptional - but interesting. In fact the meat which I had with Polenta [ I thought it is free !] was quite expensive )]
Have a look at this website in english, they offer tours, but give fairly good explanations about food in Florence, Rome and Venice, naming some typical regional dishes you might want to try eatingitalyfoodtours.com
As I told you already, in the grocery shops and supermarkets you will find food to eat while visiting, and also to take back to your room if you want to spare on restaurants; it is better you go to a Trattoria than a restaurant, they are normally cheaper.
Culatello
Then it is time to come back to Florence. It was already dark. We returned with an unforgettable experience. Today we planned to have some special dinner at a Trattoria. A trattoria is an Italian-style eating establishment, less formal than a ristorante, but more formal than an osteria. There are generally no printed menus, the service is casual, wine is sold by the decanter rather than the bottle, prices are low, and the emphasis is on a steady clientele rather than on haute cuisine. The food is modest but plentiful (mostly following regional and local recipes) and in some instances is even served family-style (i.e. at common tables).
Trattoria faithful to this stereotype have become fewer in the last 20 years and many have adopted some (or several) of the trappings of restaurants, with just one or two "concessions" to the old rustic and familiar style. We spend around 32 Euro today. The food was good. We had gnocchi , Spaghetti, Risotto and Polenta those suggested by my friend Isabella.
Mohua is having Pnochi (and Polenta is for me) |
For the difference between trattoria, osteria, ristorante and enoteca :
http://ruralhotelstuscany.com/
You can read the blog of my friend https://ashwinbahulkar.wordpress.com to know more about Florence, its food and other areas of Italy.
Some popular tour companies in Florence to go out of Florence are :
http://www.florenceandtuscanytours.com
https://www.viator.com
http://www.firenze.city-sightseeing.it
https://www.getyourguide.com
http://www.isango.com
http://www.italyonabudgettours.com
http://www.grayline.com
http://www.tuscanyonabudget.com
15/10/2016
In the early morning I left for Pisa by local train. It takes about an hour to reach "Pisa Centrale station" from Florence for 9 Euro.I bought the ticket at the station for local train.The frequency of train is very good. Needless to say even the local or Regional train is better than our best trains ! I was planning to go to Cinque terre too , since I could not go to Amalfi coast to the South of Rome. But there was hardly any time for that.
Amalfi coast |
Cinque Terre |
On the advise of my friend Isabella, I dropped the idea- since she thought giving two days to Florence is absolutely important. From Pisa Centrale station, you have to walk for 20 minutes (very pleasant walk) to Pisa. Pisa would not be Pisa, without the University. The University of Pisa has 60,000 students in a city of about 100,000 inhabitants.
In 1589 the Italian scientist Galileo Galilei dropped two spheres of different masses from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to demonstrate that their time of descent was independent of their mass. Some of the travel agents from India stay one day at Pisa. Normally when I travel I do not like to see too many pictures of a place. I had no idea that apart from Leaning tower of Pisa or Torre Pendente there is also Battistero (Baptistry) , Duomo di Pisa (Cathedral of Pisa) and Campo Santo Monumentale (Monumental Cemetery) - a huge cemetery building with lots of interesting art including splendid medieval frescoes . The whole complex or square or Piazza is simply stunning.
source : wikipedia |
Leaning Tower was originally conceived as the cathedral's bell tower. Construction
began in 1173 and the tower started leaning soon afterwards due to subsidence
of the ground underneath its base. A project to stop the tower from leaning
more and tipping over finally reached a successful conclusion in 2001.
There is a huge line at the Leaning
tower Pisa to go to the top. It comes at a cost for 18 Euro. Since there was
not enough time, we skipped going to the top. However we did spend
considerable amount of time in that square.
After buying some customary souvenir, we left for Pisa Centrale station
and reached Florence within 3 pm.
After taking some quick lunch and gelato (for
only 0.99 eruo), at the popular ice cream parlour,just beside Arno river, we left for the station.
Today the train left in time and reached Venice or Venezea as per schedule.
Today the first thing we did
was to buy the Venezia ACTV travel card for 2 days @ 30 Euro.Otherwise to
cross the canal just one way, you have to pay 7 Euro or Rs 500 !
After getting down at the station, we took left and walked all the way to
the hostel .
First view of Venice after getting down at Santa Lucia station
Initially I planned to stay at Lido - a small Island , South of
Venice - a place where Venice film festival takes place. Before reaching our
hostel we had to cross a bridge (Ponte) delle Guglie. Our hostel is a
church converted to hostel. On the way the Bangladeshi brothers guided us
to reach the hostel in no time. Intentionally I keep the hostels within walking
distance from train or bus station. Most of the travel agents from India keep their guests stay at
Venezia Mestre. Venice is an Island connected to the mainland (which includes
Venezia Mestre. Padua and others). Venice is significantly more expensive that Mestre.
On the advice of my friends I decided to stay there and paid one of the highest
tariffs for the hostel fare in my life. But staying in Mestre is just like any
other place in Italy. But to feel Venice, one must stay in Venice. I think I
took a correct decision. After reached our hostel, I did have a look at around
our hostel.It is is one of the most
interesting and lovely places in the world.
Orientation
Venice, the capital of northern Italy’s Veneto
region, is built on more than 100 small islands in a lagoon in the Adriatic
Sea. It has no roads, just canals – including the Grand Canal thoroughfare –
lined with Renaissance and Gothic palaces. The central square Piazza San
Marco contains St. Mark’s Basilica, which is tiled with Byzantine mosaics and
the Campanile or bell tower offering views of the city’s red roofs.
Few places in the world can claim to such a
spectacular natural setting, untainted architectural heritage, or jaw-dropping
Grand Canal. Venice’s museums are world class; its 141 churches are galleries
in themselves. Other incredible sights include the Gothic Doge’s Palace and the
Basilica of San Marco, which glows with Byzantine gold mosaics. Even the most
seasoned visitors get lost in the city’s network of islands, bridges,
pedestrian alleys, and canals. And therein lies the beauty of the destination:
afternoons spent wandering from palace to piazza, exploring the small art
museums, shopping at the stalls that line the streets, and encountering a fresh
side of Venice, a fascinating amalgamation of influences—Roman, Byzantine,
Ottoman, and Italian — around every corner. But the focal point of Venice is Piazza San Marco.
16/10/2016
Today we started our day with grand canal vaporetto (water buses) ride.
The
major portion of the traffic of the city of Venice goes along the Grand Canal or Canal Grande and thus to avoid congestion of traffic, there are already 3 bridges – the Ponte dei Scalzi, the Ponte dell’
Accademia, and the Rialto Bridge. We
took the boat from Ca-do-ro pier or vaporetto station. Vaporetti is plural !
We could have also taken the
vaparetto from San Marcuola. Our destination is most famous destination in
Venice - Piazza San Marco or San Marco square.
This square is the focal point of the city, the place all tourists
arrive at at some point during their stay in Venice. The square has been a
focal point of the city for centuries and is the only Venice
"Piazza"; the other squares are called "campi."
The square is a gathering place for both locals and visitors .Visitors
can enjoy the open space, which is lined with pleasant outdoor cafes and
restaurants and stores beneath the surrounding covered arcades(succession of arches). One of the most
famous cafes on the square is the Caffe Florian. The square is also known for
the many pigeons. You can buy some food from Bangladeshis to to feed
them.
Video credit : https://www.facebook.com/lt.ta.lia/videos/323611091383927/
The square is surrounded by some of the must-see sites of Venice like
the Doge's Palace where rulers lived and ran their court; the Basilica San
Marco; the basilica's free-standing campanile (bell tower); the Library of
Saint Mark's and St. Mark's Square Clock tower.
Saint Mark's Basilica on the Piazza San Marco is
one of the highlights of a visit to Venice. Filming and photography inside the Basilica is
forbidden, so be prepared in advance. A visit to St Mark’s Basilica is a
must ! St. Mark's Basilica is Venice's most famous church, known for its art
work and history. The church overlooks St. Mark's Square on the edge of the
Grand Canal and is joined to the Doge's Palace. In the 9th century
merchants smuggled relics out of Egypt and brought them to Venice.
The scene is depicted in the oldest known exterior mosaic in the world located
above the cathedral's front doors (1260-70).
A church was constructed to house
the saint's relics but burnt down almost 150 years later. It was rebuilt by
Doge Domenico Contarini and the cathedral we see today dates back to 1071 but
incorporates what remained of the original structures. When the adjacent Doge's
Palace was renovated, the cathedral also got an architectural up-date and Gothic
architecture was introduced like the elevated domes and a new façade. The
Doge's (Dukes) of Venice used the building as their own private chapel until it
became the Cathedral of Venice in 1807.
The symbol of St. Mark’s Basilica is a masterpiece of the Greek
Hellenistic sculpture : the famous gilded bronze horses.The building has a central large dome and four domes on each of the arms
of the cross. Within the church you can find art from several periods. The
narthex (entrance lobby) has a marble mosaic floor from the 11th and 12th century
. In the cathedral Treasury you can see the Crusader spoils brought from
Constantinople and across the continent. On the exterior there are two free
standing Syrian columns with intricate Byzantine-style carvings which date back
to the 5th or 6th century.
Then I went to to Bell tower of St. Mark (Campanile di San
Marco).The tower was originally constructed as a lighthouse and then a watch
tower in the 9th century, over the years it underwent several
transformations and was rebuilt a number of times from the 12th to
14th century. In 1513 Giorgio Spavento and Bartolome Bon restored the
tower following earthquake damage. However it collapsed in 1902 and was reconstructed
and reopened in 1912 to resemble the 1513 version of the tower. It cost €8 to go to the top. Mohua skipped climbing to the
climb. Only after waiting in a queue for 30 minutes, I got to know that there is
a lift. By that time, it is too late to call Mohua. The top of the tower
offers great views of Venice and the lagoon.
Then we went to Duke or Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale), also
in San Marco Square. Regular ticket €16 valid for the Doge’s
Palace and the Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
The Doges Palace is a monumental piece of architecture and perhaps the most
important site in Venice. This grand Gothic palace was the
Doge's official residence from the 9th century and seat of the Venetian
Republic's government (and prisons) for nearly 7 centuries. The local affairs of Venice were governed by Doge or Duke and
despite being under the Byzantine Emperor, the city was relatively autonomous.
From the 10th to 11th century the Doge's whole entourage, public offices,
courtrooms, residential apartments, stables, prison, armoury and other civil
facilities were moved to the present site of the palace.
Ponte dei Sospiri : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_Sighs
Under Doge Ziani (1172-1178) additions to the structure and renovations
were carried out following a destructive fire. In the 14th century the palace
needed to be expanded again due to the increased number of participants in
government affairs. Doge Franesco Foscari instigated further changes in the
15th century and several fires caused more renovations and construction.
In the 17th century the prison was separated from the palace and
constructed by Antonio Contin across the Bridge of Sighs (ponte-dei-sospiri). So prisoners would be sentenced in
the palace courtrooms and then walk across the bridge to the prison (or their
execution), on their way they would sigh! After the fall of the Venetian
Republic in 1797 the city was occupied by the French, the Austrians and finally
in 1866, it joined unified Italy.
Visitors enter the Palazzo Ducale through the Porta del Frumento through
a colonnade. The façade facing the lagoon is the oldest part of the palace , a
ceremonial entrance, decorated by Giovanni and Bartolomeo Bon. Above the
entrance are a bust of St. Mark and the iconic statue of justice. The
courtyard is home to Sansovino's colossal statues, Neptune and Mars, which
guard the Giants' Staircase. From the ground floor courtyard you go up to the
Doge's Apartments.
In the Doge's Apartments are a number of exquisite rooms-each more
beautiful than the next. There are frescoes by Giuseppe Salviati and Titian,
carved wooden ceilings; marble reliefs by Antonio and Tullio Lombardo; The Doge's Apartments are on the 1st floor, but it's the lavishly
decorated 2nd-floor chambers that are the real highlight. These culminate in
the echoing Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Grand Council Hall), home to
the Doge’s throne and a 22m-by-7m Paradise painting by
Tintoretto. It is supposed to be the biggest painting in the world.
Looking at
the painting it became clear to me, the genesis of Satyajit Ray's famous movie
Tintoretto's Jishu. I think when Ray came here for Venice film festival he came
here and then the story of Tintoretto's Jishu germinated from this.
In the lunch time, we had food from a restaurant run by Bangladeshis (owned by
a Italian). We learnt that the Bangladeshis mostly has come for
"agriculture" and then left the field work for city life (hawking
stuff, working in restaurant). He told me that human rights are very strong
here. Nobody will bodily harm you. Italians are very liberal and are one of the
least racist people you will ever find in Europe. They are generally very nice
people. This is the story I have heard from Bangladeshis everywhere in Italy.
They are all in praise for the Italians. It is important to note that the per capita GDP of Italy of USD 30,000 is lower than major countries of Europe (e.g. USD 42,000 for Germany or USD 40,000 for UK) and the Italian economy is not in very good shape (Though many times more than India at USD 1850).
Then we started walking towards San Giovanni e
Paolo . A fine, huge Dominican church with the tombs of many Doges.
It shares its piazza with the fine Renaissance facade of the Scuola San Marco .
There is a hostpital just beside the church. There is also a water ambulance !
By this time the sun was setting. So we decided to go to Burano by vaporetto from Fondamente Nove Pier. It will not cost us anything, since we have unlimited 48
hours ticket. We thought it is better to go to an island and see the setting
sun from the vaporetto. When we reached Burano it
was already late. We had only 30-40 minutes before the last vaporetto leaves
for Fondamente Nove Pier. It seemed to us, although it was only 8 pm , it
appeared to be 3 am at night. We could hardly see anybody. We saw only one
restaurant open. Even at night, we can make out the remarkable island of Burano.
From Fondamente Nove we walked all the way to our hostel. On the way we
had our dinner in one restaurant run by a chinese. We had pizza. Although we
sat on the sidewalk, still we had to pay Coperto !
17/10/2016
Today we walked upto Orto pier
which is near the church Madonna dell'Orto.
It is a mistake,we should have taken it from Fondamente Nuove - which is the main pier.
Venice is full of shops of Masks.
To go to Murano or Burano one must take the vaporetto from Fondamente (Ft) Nuove, since the one from Orto ultimately go to Murano via Ft Nuove. Our fist visit is to Murano - which can actually be seen from Ft Nove,Venice. It takes around 10-15 minutes from Ft Nove. Murano is composed of 7 islands, linked by bridges, separated by 8 channels. Murano is known for its glass worldwide. Murano glass is made on the Venetian island of Murano, which has specialized in fancy glasswares for centuries. Today, the artisans of Murano are still employing these centuries-old techniques.
Murano’s reputation as a center for glassmaking was born when the Venetian Republic, fearing fire and destruction of the city’s mostly wooden buildings, ordered glassmakers to move their foundries to Murano in 1291. Murano's glass makers were soon the island’s most prominent citizens. However, glass makers were not allowed to leave the Republic. Exportation of professional secret was punished by death. Many craftsmen took this risk and set up glass furnaces in surrounding cities and as far as England and the Netherlands.
After getting down from the vaporetto we went to a
government run murano glass factory where we were shown the technique of Murano
style glass making. Then we were guided to a Murano glass shop for
purchase of souvenir. They are really stunning. There are many shops selling
Murano glass throughout Murano.
After that we went to another pier to leave for
Burano. From Murano it takes around 30 minutes to reach Burano. Just before
Burano is Mazzorbo Island.
Burano is also known
for its small, brightly painted houses. In Burano you will find
some of the most picturesque streets and houses, with each house sporting a
different pastel shade. It is really stunning. The colours of the houses
follow a specific system originating from the golden age of its development; if
someone wishes to paint their home, one must send a request to the government,
who will respond by giving notice of the certain colours permitted for that
lot.
I found it really fascinating to say the least. It is a photographer's delight.
It rose in importance only in the 16th century, when women on the island began making lace with needles, being introduced via Venetian-ruled Cyprus. When Leonardo da Vinci visited in 1481, he purchased a cloth for the main altar of the Duomo di Milano. The lace was soon exported across Europe, but trade began to decline in the 18th century and the industry did not revive until 1872, when a school of lace making was opened.
Lace making on the island boomed again, but few now make lace in the traditional manner as it is extremely time-consuming and therefore expensive. Many shops are selling lacework.
After walking for some time around the Island, we
left for Venice. For lack of time, we could not go to Torcello. Though there
is not much to see in Torcello, except for the old church. One of the
popular Island tours include Murano, Burano and Torcello tour. We took a
vaporetto go to Venice. It took around 40 minutes.
After getting down from Ft Nuove, we saw church
of Santa Maria Assunta, known as I Gesuiti / Chiesa dei
Gesuiti (Jesuits) very near to it. The Jesuits were never popular in Venice and this
might explain the relatively remote location chosen for this church
with Baroque decorations . Saint Ignatius of Loyola visited the city of Venice for the first time in 1523. Every
year on July 31, the Jesuits celebrate the Feast of St Ignatius of Loyola.
Ignatius is the Founder of our Religious Order, called the Society of Jesus, popularly known as Jesuits.
The
youngest son of a noble chief, Ignatius was
born in Loyola, Spain, in 1491. Reared to be a Courtier in the service of
the Crown, his desire was to win fame as a soldier of great valour. He was the
typical self-seeking young man of his time. But then something happened which
was to change his life forever.
On
May 20, 1521, while fighting in a battle against the French, his right leg was
shattered by a French cannonball. Unfortunately, the attending doctors set his
leg wrong. It had to be broken and set
again. The surgery was excruciating but he survived it. During his convalescence,
Ignatius asked for books of chivalric romances but instead, much to his chagrin,
he was given the Life of Christ the Lives of the Saints. With nothing else to
do, he began to read, and before he knew it, he was overwhelmed by the
exploits of the Saints to the point where he decided that their lives were an
example worth emulating. This was the beginning of his transformation. He felt that God had given him a
New Vision, and opened his inner eyes and heart. Seeing everything anew in and
by the light of God, he decided he would no longer serve earthly kings, but
serve only the Heavenly King. His values, thoughts and actions had been
radically changed. His transformation was complete.
He
spent the next few years in Spain and Paris studying to become a priest. At the
University of Paris, he forged a strong bond with 6 committed companions who,
motivated by him, were also deeply transformed to love and serve God. They, in
turn, transformed many others in Europe, Asia and Africa. Everywhere they went
they inspired willing hearts to love and serve all in the greater glory of God.
He returned to I Gesuiti in 1535 with a group of friends, who already "called themselves" the Society of Jesus (members of which are referred to as Jesuits - Gesuiti in Italian) and here they were ordained as priests. It took just 2 years for the group to fully establish themselves in the lagoon of Venice and to gain a large following. They left for Rome in 1537. With
his 6 original companions, Ignatius founded, in 1540, the "The Society
of Jesus" in Rome. One of these loyal companions was Francis Xavier of St
Xaviers fame. Xavier came to India in 1542 and preached the message of love and
service to all. At great personal risk, he zealously carried this message to
South-east Asia and Japan. He died on December 3, 1552, on Sanchian Island
close to mainland China, after 10 long years of hectic and fruitful education
and evangelization works in Asia.
Xavier's
sacred body is preserved in the Church of Bom Jesus in Old Goa. It was there
that he opened the first Jesuit College in 1542. It was the precursor of many
such Jesuit schools and colleges to come up in India and Asia.
(source : Father Dominic Savio in TT)
I have studied in a Jesuit School in Kolkata. At the time of my visit, I had no clue about this Church. Only much later, I got to know about the importance of this church.
Then we left for Ca-d-oro to go to Santa Maria
Della Salute Church at the end of Grand Canal.The view towards Salute Church is jaw dropping !
The location of the church is also quite stunning.
From there, I started walking towards nearby The Peggy Guggenheim Museum (Located on the
Dorsoduro region of Venice, to the east of the Accademia bridge, on the
southern side of the Grand Canal).
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum offers
a personal collection of modern art collected by Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy was an
American married to modern artist Max Ernst. The gallery includes a sculpture
garden and works by Picasso, Kandinsky.Since the admission fees was very
steep at 15 Euro, instead of going inside the museum, I bought a picture from a local artist sitting just beside the Museum, for 10 Euro. He has been to India too. He stays nearby.
Then we left for Academia Vaporetto pier ( to go to Church of the Santissimo Redentore or Chiesa
del Santissimo Redentore). On the way I heard the most amazing piece of music I
have ever heard. Igor Sklyarov Russia
was playing some pieces from Fur Elise on my request. He has a group called Crystal Trio (www.crystaltrio.com) which is
a unique group from Russia. They perform on crystal
glass.
Glass Music, an ancient art which had success in many noble
houses of Europe, Russia and North America in the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries, was often included as an integral part of the symphony orchestra.
Crystal Trio continues to develop the tradition of musical glass by
playing well-known classical and popular modern works, as well as tunes
specifically written for glass instruments. The current
repertoire includes variations of popular classical melodies of Mozart,
Vivaldi, Tchaikovsky in addition to original pieces written
specifically for a crystal glass. The sound of the harmonic glass will
remind you of the murmur of a mountain stream, a soft, windy breeze or
mysterious wordless singing.
I had plan to go to Vivaldi's house in Venice, due to lack of time I could not manage it. Then we took Vaporetto to go to Church of the Santissimo Redentore. When we reached there it is almost dark. It is a 16th-century Roman Catholic church located on Giudecca (island) . It was constructed to thank God for the deliverance of the city from a major outbreak of the plague. It dominates the skyline of the island of Giudecca. It contains a number of paintings by artists including Tintoretto.
After spending some time there, we took a vaporetto to go to Cannaregio (my hotel is located at pat of Venice called Cannaregio). Instead of taking Grand Canal it took a different route, around the rail station and finally reached grand canal from the other side.
After reaching San Marculo pier we had our dinner and left for hostel, since we will leave early morning for Milan by Regional train. Unfortunately we could not go to Jewish Ghetto of Venice. Venice's ghetto was the first "ghetto" (coming from a Venetian word for the Iron Foundry that was on the site previously) and "ghetto" eventually came to mean any neighbourhood that was made up of a single ethnic/racial group. Today, Jewish life is still very active in the ghetto and elsewhere in Venice, and is home to 5 synagogues.
Please remember there is another water bus company called Alilaguna – which has a very limited number of routes (one of them takes you to the airport) and does not always run as often as one would expect. The ACTV (almost a synomym for vaporettos) on the other hand, offer many routes and allow visitors to go to all the islands in the Lagoon (i.e. Murano, Burano, Lido, Torcello). So do not mix up with ACTV and Alilaguna and there is separate ticket for each. There is also water taxi in Venice which is quite expensive.
ACTV really wants you to have a ticket that you've swiped against an electronic reader before you board. It's now illegal to be on a water bus platform without a validated ticket. If a vaporetto station doesn't have a ticket booth or machine, look for a nearby tabacchi shop (marked with a white "T" on a blue background) or a news stand that sells ACTV tickets.We did not face any problem since we bought our pass/tickets immediately on reaching Venice.
18/10/2016
Today we left for Milan. We
got up early and left for Milan. I forgot to buy the train ticket to Milan. Due
to surge pricing, the price became double. So instead of fast train, I bought the
regional train ticket online, using the wifi of my hotel.
Double decker train
I had to change three
trains to reach Mian. The journey was pleasant. Although I did not have print
out of ticket, e-ticket served the purpose. Initially I thought only one train
will take us to Milan.
Milan central station is quite big and architectural wonder. We sat
in front of the station and had our lunch over there.
I wanted to see
Gothic Milan Cathedral (Duomo) which took nearly six centuries to complete. It is the largest church in Italy (the larger St. Peter's Basilica is in the State of Vatican City) and the fifth largest in the world. I wanted to see Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie, one of the most beautiful Italian churches and in the years 1495-1498 Leonardo da Vinci painted the famous mural "The Last Supper" here. How can
I leave Milan without seeing the San Siro stadium. But alas I had to miss all
of them. There was not enough time.
The place where Mohua was sitting is full of people from Albania,
Morocco, Nigeria. One of the Bangladeshi hawker warned us to be very careful
with our luggage. He told me the two ladies smoking cigarette beside Mohua are
from Albania and are drug peddlers and are also snatchers. So the only
time, I left Mohua alone, is to buy some cheese and bread from a very cheap
departmental store ( again guided by a Bangladeshi). I bought bread for 0.6
Euro. Mohua was keeping an eye on our bags (in fact the bags were tied to her body)
After spending some time there and finishing our lunch, we left by
an airport express bus to go to airport. The bus stop is just beside the Milan Centrale
station. We had many small bags with us. If we have left all of them with left
luggage counter , we would have to pay a fortune. And they will count for each
and every bag.That is why we could not roam around freely in Milan, even though
time was limited. So I decided to bring along a big plastic and put everything inside. India Juggad !
We took an Indian
Airlines plane to come back to India via Delhi.
44
Tips for Italy
Don't use third party booking websites or companies. Companies like
TickItaly will charge you MORE which you could easily make on the official
museum website yourself.
1. Get up early every once and a
while. Many cities, like Rome and Venice, have a completely
different feel without the hoards of tourists. It is worth it to get an early
start.
2. Be prepared to lug all of your luggage
down cobblestone streets and up stairs (and on and off trains). If your
bag is too heavy or large to do this yourself, you need to rethink what you
have packed! There are lots of streets and squares taxis can’t go down
3. Always carry cash.Most places will not let
you use your debit or credit card for smaller purchases.
4. Don't put cheese on seafood pasta.Despite
how delicious the cheese is here, Italians do not put it on everything.
5. Carry a copy of your passport instead of
the original and leave the original locked in your room safe (or hidden in your
room).
6. Exchange money via your debit card at the
ATM. This is the easiest way to get euros and ensures the best exchange rate.
7. Don't sign the petition against drugs!
This is often a scam.
8. Hold your wine glass by the stem. The heat from
your hand changes the character of the wine when you hold the glass.
9. Eat as far away
from major attractions as possible.
10. Drink the tap water. The public
drinking fountains throughout Italy spew fresh spring water that is still
brought to the city by the ancient aqueducts. The water is delicious, clean,
and free! Moreover, you can refill your bottles of
water at any of the drinking fountains . Ask for tap water in the
restaurant or you will get bottled water and have
to pay for that too.
11 If you find a restroom, use it, because who
knows when you'll find another one. McDonald's often has well maintained
bathrooms and it is easy enough to breeze by the lines of customers to use it
without buying anything.
12. In Florence opt for an
aperitivo instead of dinner every once in a while. Aperitivi are typically
served from 7ish to 9ish. You pay for the drink, usually around 7 to 10 euros,
and get to enjoy the complementary buffet. Trust me it is a ton of food. You
get to try new Tuscan dishes and save money. I have tried one very near to
Academia Gallery. It is really worth every penny.
25. Walk everywhere. Florence is small and the best
way to see it is on foot.
26. Invest in the Florence Pass/Firenze
Card. You get to skip the line and save money. I did not do it. But in
Florence the lines are not that big compared to Rome.
27. Try new foods. As gross as cow’s stomach
and chicken livers sound, the Florentines consider them delicacies and they are
delicious.
28. Climb the Duomo's cupola for a wonderful view.
29. For a great view that nobody knows about, go to
the department store across the street from Piazza della Reppublica and climb
to the very top, including the unofficial-looking staircase on the top floor.
There is a cafe up there with an amazing panoramic view of the city next
to the Duomo.
30. Get great shots of the Ponte Vecchio and the
river from the Ponte delle Grazie, the bridge east of the Ponte Vecchio.
31. Everyone goes to see the sunset at Piazzale
Michelangelo, but go a bit further to San Miniato al Monte for an even better
view at one of the city’s oldest churches.
32. Go to Il Latini for the best Tuscan meal of
your life.
33. The best tiramisu is at Le Collinine, around
the corner from Santa Croce.
35. Visit Pisa, but don’t make a day of it — you
don’t need to spend more than an afternoon.
37. Pisa and Lucca, with the bulk of the time spent
in Lucca, make an easy Tuscany day trip from Florence.
38. Tuscany is still a great place to rent a villa
for a week. The best Tuscany villas are the ones in towns that aren’t
mentioned in your guidebook.
39. The Chianti region is part of Tuscany, and
October is harvest time.
40. Fiesole is the easiest Tuscan day trip from
Florence — just a 20-minute ride on the public bus!
41. To see the most of Tuscany, rent a car — that
way, you can hit up five towns or so in one day.
42. Visit Siena – Everyone always says “I looooove
Siena” and with good reason. It’s one of the best preserved medieval cities in
Italy and has a labyrinth of lanes gathered around the arena of Piazza del
Campo (where, during the summer, they have horses racing).
43. In Venice you will get lost so why not embrace
it
44. Spend the night. It is safe.So many tourists
only come for the day and Venice is very eerie at night.
45. Take the Vaporetto down the Grand Canal
(for a much cheaper tour).
46. One Venetian gondola seats six. To save money,
pack in as many as possible, since the price is per gondola not person.If
you’re going to ride in a gondola, just show up and wait. The gondoliers
will do the bargaining for you. They can charge anything between 50 Euro to 80
Euro.
47. Besides Venice Carnival, Venice is just a great
place to visit. Head to the old Jewish Ghetto for hip bars and cheap drinks. We
did not have time to go there.
Money and time Saving Tips
Food – Eating out in the popular cities
of Italy is an expensive affair. Buy paninis and “pizza by the slice” and save
a lot of money. It will cost between 2-4 EUR. Typically pizza by slice
sells pizza at 10 Euro per kg. For me 300 gms were enough. We saved lot
of money by pizza by slice.
Fast food (i.e. McDonalds) will cost 9 EUR for a value meal.
At all restaurants, add 3 Euro for the “coperta” (sit down
fee) that covers service and the bread at the table. Pass on the bread – Some restaurants will charge
you extra for bread or breadsticks on the table but not tell you about
it until the bill comes. Send it back if you don’t want to be tempted. I have
paid coperta thrice. It is better to ask the coperta fee before your sit down
to eat. I paid coperta even while eating in a restaurant where some tables are
on the road (in front of the restaurant – in Venice)
§ Instead of having dinner out, have lunch instead. Many
restaurants have special lunch menu’s for workers . However we had hardly time
to have lunch.
§ Larger cities cater toward
tourists, and a decent meal may cost hundreds of Euros . Here the key is to
walk 5 blocks in any direction away from the main piazza or strada, and look for a restaurant with a menu out front
written only in Italian. Never eat at a restaurant with pictures on the
menu.
§ It helps to know the level of
service you should expect from an establishment. # An osteria will be your most
affordable option, and is good for quick meals and will have great wine. #
A trattoria is likely to be a traditional family run
restaurant, where you can find
local specialties. # For the top level of
service you would head to a ristorante,
where you will dine on white tablecloths with formal servers.However sometimes
your most memorable meal will be a pizza on the street in Naples, or chestnuts roasting on the sidewalk in Rome.
§ Buy lots of wine – You can buy a great bottle of wine for 4 EUR. Drink the house wine — always. It’s delicious and almost laughably cheap for the quality
that you get.
§ Don’t drink cappuccino after 10:00
AM.
§ Don’t eat at any restaurant named after a monument,
city or famous artist. These are usually geared toward tourists.
§ For the best food, head for the
source: Parma for prosciutto, Capri for ravioli caprese, Umbria for
truffles, Tuscany for steaks, Liguria for pesto genovese. Beyond that,
every town has its own specialty.
§ Emilia-Romagna is Italy’s best food region, and Bologna,
its capital, is Italy’s best food city.
§ I spent much more on food than I did on
accommodation in Italy
§ You must eat
at local pasticceria. We had at least one gelato break a day. Gelatos
cost between 1 Euro to 2.5 Euro for a cone. In Florence we had it for
only 1 Euro. You must have Hazelnut and also cranberry.
§ You must have cantuccini’s and
biscotti’s.
Best foods in Italy-
Florence
This is a compilation of restaurants recommended by
different bloggers :
The Central Market (il Mercato Centrale) -
From the amazing sandwich shops (you must try the centuries-old recipe for the
"boiled beef panino" at Nerbone), to the fresh fruits and veggies,
traditional meats and cheeses, and newly opened fancy food court upstairs, I
find myself eating and grocery shopping at the Mercato multiple times a week. You
won't find fresher or more delicious items at a better price!
Kitsch - Tuscany
has a wonderful tradition of "aperativi."
Basically you pay for your alcoholic drink and they provide a buffet of Tuscan
delights. Kitsch has one of the most elaborate and delicious spreads in
Florence and you will be hard pressed to find an equally delicious and
extravagant meal for just 10 euro. It is also a great way to try new things!
Birreria Centrale - This little
restaurant comes highly recommended by locals and serves traditional Tuscan
dishes. It has a quaint atmosphere with reasonable prices and a great location
in the center of the city!
Alle Murate - The
history nerd in me loves this restaurant for its location - you dine in a 14th
century palazzo with original frescos! It's pricier, and
should be saved for a special occasion, but is definitely worth visiting once.
Brunori Salvatore -
This local favorite serves fresh baked breads, pastries, and focaccia. They
also make delicious and made-to-order panini for a steal (starting at 3.50
euros). But be warned, this place is so local they speak very little English. Think
of it as a great way to practice your Italian!
Il Teatro -
This warm and friendly traditional Italian eatery is one of my students'
favorites. They make the best fried balls in Florence (also known as cocoli)!
Cocoli are basically fried dough you lather with the most delicious cheese
(called stracchino) and then wrap in fresh prosciutto. Like all Tuscan food,
it's simple yet amazing! Besides this incredible antipasto, they also serve a
great selection of traditional dishes (I really like the prosciutto and panna
tortellini).
Cantina
Gelato -
What Italian food list would be complete without gelato? My absolute favorite
in Florence is Cantina Gelato. It is a tiny shop just south of the river. But
don't let its size fool you, they have a great selection of interesting and
delicious gelato (you must try the "cookies" and marscapone and
nutella, the cinnamon and whisky is another crowd pleaser).
Gusta Pizza - The best pizza in town, hands down. I have blogged about them before
and I will do it again, it is that good! But get there early, it gets crazy. My
favorite is their signature "Gusta" pizza, which if you are lucky,
they will make in the shape of a heart.This has been recommended by many
people. Lunch buffet for 10 euros were great.
Caffe
Giacosa - My one and only love in
Florence. Caffe Giacosa makes the creamiest, frothiest cappuccinos (ever!). I
will travel 15 minutes out of my way just to have one. The caffe itself is very
chic and fashionable, I mean it was once owned by Roberto Cavalli! The caffe is
also historic. Founded in 1815, it was a popular salon for intellectuals, and
fun fact, the famous negroni was invented there!
Antellesi -
Another traditional Tuscan trattoria, Antellesi serves a great Florentine steak
(called the bistecca Fiorentina) at an even greater price. I also highly
recommend the truffle pasta, delicious!
I Buongustai
Ristorante Caffagi
Ristorante Zaza
Caffe Greco. They
make the most amazing custard cake
Siene: Osteria Al
Grattacielo
The gelatos in San Gimignano were amaaaaazing! It
says ' world's best gelato'
Steaks in Florence
are famous
Transportation
The
best way to get around Italy is via their extensive train network. Fast trains
cost between 20-40 EUR per trip. The slower regional trains cost between 6-23
EUR per trip. (Take them!)
Public transport is reasonably priced with most buses and subways costing
1.5 EUR for a single ticket.
For long distances when you are short on time, Ryanair and EasyJet have
cheap flights throughout the country.
§ Look for transportation deals, Trenitalia,
Italy’s national train company, has deals if you book in advance on their
website, and the info is in english. Also Trenitalia now has some
competition, NTV is a new
company and they are offering some great deals on high-speed trains between the
larger cities in Italy.
Also ATAF bus company in Florence has a nifty “carte
agile” a bus pass that comes in 10, 20 or 30 rides that never expires and gets
you at least one or two free trips. Make the most of
the high-speed train.
It is only takes 1.5 hour to get from Florence to Rome or Florence to Venice,
Plus the trains are comfortable and reliable. They are my preferred way to
travel around Italy. You can purchase tickets online or through a local travel
agent in Italy.
I have travelled fast trains as well as slow
trains. Slow (Regional) trains takes 50-100% more time. There is hardly
anything to choose between the two. Even the local/ Regional trains are better
than best trains in India ! I bought the ticket online from India. There is
surge pricing in Trains of Italy. So, if you buy the tickets at the last moment
you have to pay 50-100% more. I forgot the to buy ticket from Venice to Milan.
The fast train became so expensive at the last moment, that I went by Regional
train(changing two trains) and it took a considerably longer time.
Don't let anyone help you put your luggage on the
train or take it off. This is a scam (mostly by
gypsies) to force you to tip.
Watch your bags as the train arrives and departs
the station. Italy is infamous for snatchers
and pickpockets.
Activities
Most attractions and museums in Italy cost between 13-18 EUR to
enter.
Accommodation is quite expensive in Italy, even in the hostels. Use
Airbnb to stay with locals who have extra beds, rooms . I use the service a lot
and find it not only saves me money, but I meet great people too.
Tipping
Tipping is customary in restaurants, but optional elsewhere.
§ Hotels Tip porters about €4 at high-end hotels.
§ Restaurants Service (servizio) is generally
included in restaurants – if it's not, a euro or two is fine in pizzerias, 10%
in restaurants.
Get a Schengen Visa and be smart about it
Getting a European
tourist visa is perhaps the most complicated when you hold an Indian
passport, but there’s a method to the madness. If you intend to travel to
two or more countries on your trip (and you should), apply for a Schengen
Visa, which covers most countries in Western Europe & a few in
Eastern Europe. To get a Schengen Visa, you need to show confirmed flight
& hotel bookings, which is crazy because what if you pay for
everything and don’t end up getting an approved visa? The best way to work
around it is to book a completely refundable flight on your credit card,
typically a full-fledged carrier like Lufthansa or Quantas. Similarly,
book fully refundable hotels on Booking.com, the most reliable site when it comes to
refunds. Soon as you get your visa, cancel your bookings and start your
real research.
All the fonts in
courier font are from different blogs, the list of which is given below :
http://www.adventurouskate.com/40-tips-for-visiting-italy/http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/10-day-itinerary-for-italy-an-affordable-trip-to-rome-florence-and-venice.html
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4NlVkvRDkM/U3PM31JKAvI/AAAAAAAAD2o/deJiaMhvz1g/s1600/Florence_Map_Food.gif
First view of Venice after getting down at Santa Lucia station |
Initially I planned to stay at Lido - a small Island , South of Venice - a place where Venice film festival takes place. Before reaching our hostel we had to cross a bridge (Ponte) delle Guglie. Our hostel is a church converted to hostel. On the way the Bangladeshi brothers guided us to reach the hostel in no time. Intentionally I keep the hostels within walking distance from train or bus station. Most of the travel agents from India keep their guests stay at Venezia Mestre. Venice is an Island connected to the mainland (which includes Venezia Mestre. Padua and others). Venice is significantly more expensive that Mestre. On the advice of my friends I decided to stay there and paid one of the highest tariffs for the hostel fare in my life. But staying in Mestre is just like any other place in Italy. But to feel Venice, one must stay in Venice. I think I took a correct decision. After reached our hostel, I did have a look at around our hostel.It is is one of the most interesting and lovely places in the world.
Few places in the world can claim to such a spectacular natural setting, untainted architectural heritage, or jaw-dropping Grand Canal. Venice’s museums are world class; its 141 churches are galleries in themselves. Other incredible sights include the Gothic Doge’s Palace and the Basilica of San Marco, which glows with Byzantine gold mosaics. Even the most seasoned visitors get lost in the city’s network of islands, bridges, pedestrian alleys, and canals. And therein lies the beauty of the destination: afternoons spent wandering from palace to piazza, exploring the small art museums, shopping at the stalls that line the streets, and encountering a fresh side of Venice, a fascinating amalgamation of influences—Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Italian — around every corner. But the focal point of Venice is Piazza San Marco.
The major portion of the traffic of the city of Venice goes along the Grand Canal or Canal Grande and thus to avoid congestion of traffic, there are already 3 bridges – the Ponte dei Scalzi, the Ponte dell’ Accademia, and the Rialto Bridge. We took the boat from Ca-do-ro pier or vaporetto station. Vaporetti is plural !
We could have also taken the vaparetto from San Marcuola. Our destination is most famous destination in Venice - Piazza San Marco or San Marco square.
A church was constructed to house the saint's relics but burnt down almost 150 years later. It was rebuilt by Doge Domenico Contarini and the cathedral we see today dates back to 1071 but incorporates what remained of the original structures. When the adjacent Doge's Palace was renovated, the cathedral also got an architectural up-date and Gothic architecture was introduced like the elevated domes and a new façade. The Doge's (Dukes) of Venice used the building as their own private chapel until it became the Cathedral of Venice in 1807.
Ponte dei Sospiri : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_Sighs |
Under Doge Ziani (1172-1178) additions to the structure and renovations were carried out following a destructive fire. In the 14th century the palace needed to be expanded again due to the increased number of participants in government affairs. Doge Franesco Foscari instigated further changes in the 15th century and several fires caused more renovations and construction.
Venice is full of shops of Masks. |
Murano’s reputation as a center for glassmaking was born when the Venetian Republic, fearing fire and destruction of the city’s mostly wooden buildings, ordered glassmakers to move their foundries to Murano in 1291. Murano's glass makers were soon the island’s most prominent citizens. However, glass makers were not allowed to leave the Republic. Exportation of professional secret was punished by death. Many craftsmen took this risk and set up glass furnaces in surrounding cities and as far as England and the Netherlands.
After that we went to another pier to leave for Burano. From Murano it takes around 30 minutes to reach Burano. Just before Burano is Mazzorbo Island.
I found it really fascinating to say the least. It is a photographer's delight.
It rose in importance only in the 16th century, when women on the island began making lace with needles, being introduced via Venetian-ruled Cyprus. When Leonardo da Vinci visited in 1481, he purchased a cloth for the main altar of the Duomo di Milano. The lace was soon exported across Europe, but trade began to decline in the 18th century and the industry did not revive until 1872, when a school of lace making was opened.
Lace making on the island boomed again, but few now make lace in the traditional manner as it is extremely time-consuming and therefore expensive. Many shops are selling lacework.
Every
year on July 31, the Jesuits celebrate the Feast of St Ignatius of Loyola.
Ignatius is the Founder of our Religious Order, called the Society of Jesus, popularly known as Jesuits.
The
youngest son of a noble chief, Ignatius was
born in Loyola, Spain, in 1491. Reared to be a Courtier in the service of
the Crown, his desire was to win fame as a soldier of great valour. He was the
typical self-seeking young man of his time. But then something happened which
was to change his life forever.
On
May 20, 1521, while fighting in a battle against the French, his right leg was
shattered by a French cannonball. Unfortunately, the attending doctors set his
leg wrong. It had to be broken and set
again. The surgery was excruciating but he survived it. During his convalescence,
Ignatius asked for books of chivalric romances but instead, much to his chagrin,
he was given the Life of Christ the Lives of the Saints. With nothing else to
do, he began to read, and before he knew it, he was overwhelmed by the
exploits of the Saints to the point where he decided that their lives were an
example worth emulating. This was the beginning of his transformation. He felt that God had given him a
New Vision, and opened his inner eyes and heart. Seeing everything anew in and
by the light of God, he decided he would no longer serve earthly kings, but
serve only the Heavenly King. His values, thoughts and actions had been
radically changed. His transformation was complete.
He spent the next few years in Spain and Paris studying to become a priest. At the University of Paris, he forged a strong bond with 6 committed companions who, motivated by him, were also deeply transformed to love and serve God. They, in turn, transformed many others in Europe, Asia and Africa. Everywhere they went they inspired willing hearts to love and serve all in the greater glory of God.
He returned to I Gesuiti in 1535 with a group of friends, who already "called themselves" the Society of Jesus (members of which are referred to as Jesuits - Gesuiti in Italian) and here they were ordained as priests. It took just 2 years for the group to fully establish themselves in the lagoon of Venice and to gain a large following. They left for Rome in 1537. With his 6 original companions, Ignatius founded, in 1540, the "The Society of Jesus" in Rome. One of these loyal companions was Francis Xavier of St Xaviers fame. Xavier came to India in 1542 and preached the message of love and service to all. At great personal risk, he zealously carried this message to South-east Asia and Japan. He died on December 3, 1552, on Sanchian Island close to mainland China, after 10 long years of hectic and fruitful education and evangelization works in Asia.
Xavier's
sacred body is preserved in the Church of Bom Jesus in Old Goa. It was there
that he opened the first Jesuit College in 1542. It was the precursor of many
such Jesuit schools and colleges to come up in India and Asia.
(source : Father Dominic Savio in TT)
I have studied in a Jesuit School in Kolkata. At the time of my visit, I had no clue about this Church. Only much later, I got to know about the importance of this church.
The location of the church is also quite stunning.
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum offers a personal collection of modern art collected by Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy was an American married to modern artist Max Ernst. The gallery includes a sculpture garden and works by Picasso, Kandinsky.Since the admission fees was very steep at 15 Euro, instead of going inside the museum, I bought a picture from a local artist sitting just beside the Museum, for 10 Euro. He has been to India too. He stays nearby.
Glass Music, an ancient art which had success in many noble houses of Europe, Russia and North America in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, was often included as an integral part of the symphony orchestra.
After spending some time there, we took a vaporetto to go to Cannaregio (my hotel is located at pat of Venice called Cannaregio). Instead of taking Grand Canal it took a different route, around the rail station and finally reached grand canal from the other side.
After reaching San Marculo pier we had our dinner and left for hostel, since we will leave early morning for Milan by Regional train. Unfortunately we could not go to Jewish Ghetto of Venice. Venice's ghetto was the first "ghetto" (coming from a Venetian word for the Iron Foundry that was on the site previously) and "ghetto" eventually came to mean any neighbourhood that was made up of a single ethnic/racial group. Today, Jewish life is still very active in the ghetto and elsewhere in Venice, and is home to 5 synagogues.
Please remember there is another water bus company called Alilaguna – which has a very limited number of routes (one of them takes you to the airport) and does not always run as often as one would expect. The ACTV (almost a synomym for vaporettos) on the other hand, offer many routes and allow visitors to go to all the islands in the Lagoon (i.e. Murano, Burano, Lido, Torcello). So do not mix up with ACTV and Alilaguna and there is separate ticket for each. There is also water taxi in Venice which is quite expensive.
ACTV really wants you to have a ticket that you've swiped against an electronic reader before you board. It's now illegal to be on a water bus platform without a validated ticket. If a vaporetto station doesn't have a ticket booth or machine, look for a nearby tabacchi shop (marked with a white "T" on a blue background) or a news stand that sells ACTV tickets.We did not face any problem since we bought our pass/tickets immediately on reaching Venice.
Today we left for Milan. We got up early and left for Milan. I forgot to buy the train ticket to Milan. Due to surge pricing, the price became double. So instead of fast train, I bought the regional train ticket online, using the wifi of my hotel.
Double decker train |
I wanted to see Gothic Milan Cathedral (Duomo) which took nearly six centuries to complete. It is the largest church in Italy (the larger St. Peter's Basilica is in the State of Vatican City) and the fifth largest in the world. I wanted to see Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie, one of the most beautiful Italian churches and in the years 1495-1498 Leonardo da Vinci painted the famous mural "The Last Supper" here. How can I leave Milan without seeing the San Siro stadium. But alas I had to miss all of them. There was not enough time.
The place where Mohua was sitting is full of people from Albania, Morocco, Nigeria. One of the Bangladeshi hawker warned us to be very careful with our luggage. He told me the two ladies smoking cigarette beside Mohua are from Albania and are drug peddlers and are also snatchers. So the only time, I left Mohua alone, is to buy some cheese and bread from a very cheap departmental store ( again guided by a Bangladeshi). I bought bread for 0.6 Euro. Mohua was keeping an eye on our bags (in fact the bags were tied to her body)
After spending some time there and finishing our lunch, we left by an airport express bus to go to airport. The bus stop is just beside the Milan Centrale station. We had many small bags with us. If we have left all of them with left luggage counter , we would have to pay a fortune. And they will count for each and every bag.That is why we could not roam around freely in Milan, even though time was limited. So I decided to bring along a big plastic and put everything inside. India Juggad !
It is only takes 1.5 hour to get from Florence to Rome or Florence to Venice, Plus the trains are comfortable and reliable. They are my preferred way to travel around Italy. You can purchase tickets online or through a local travel agent in Italy.
All the fonts in courier font are from different blogs, the list of which is given below :