Tour diary
30.6.17. Kolkata (8.15 pm) - Delhi (5.30 am) - Ahmedabad (6.30 am)
We reached Ahmedabad early in the morning at 6:30 AM. The reason for choosing a flight at such an odd hour was to fully utilize Saturday, as there are no early morning flights on Saturdays from Kolkata. This tour follows my classic travel schedule from Friday (30/6) to Monday (10/7).
At the airport, we were greeted by Amarbhai. Originally from Uttar Pradesh, he shared with us that he earned the title "Bhai" after moving to Gujarat! In Gujarat, it’s common for people to refer to others as "Bhai." He turned out to be the best thing that happened to us on this tour.
Gujarat's coastal cities have historically served as ports and trading hubs during the Maurya and Gupta empires. Remarkably, trading activities in this region have been ongoing for over 5,000 years, giving Gujarat exposure to foreign trade far earlier than any other state in India.
Approximately 89% of Gujarat's population follows Hinduism, while Muslims account for 9% and Jains make up 1%. Parts of modern Rajasthan and Gujarat have been referred to as "Gurjara-bhumi" (land of the Gurjars) for centuries, long before the Mughal period.
Gujarati cuisine is predominantly vegetarian and reflects the diverse culinary traditions of the state's various regions. Each region brings its own unique flavors and styles to Gujarati food. A hallmark of Gujarati dishes is their distinctive combination of sweet, salty, and spicy flavors, often blended harmoniously in a single dish.
In most restaurants, you’ll typically find two main types of Gujarati food on offer: Kathiawari (from the Saurashtra region) and traditional Gujarati cuisine. While both share similarities, they also have subtle differences that reflect the cultural and geographical diversity of the state.
Our first destination was Modhera and Patan, followed by a stay at a homestay in Dhrangadhra, near the Little Rann of Kutch (LRK). The word Rann means desert, and Kutch refers to a tortoise, symbolizing the shape of the region.
There are two or three main entry points to the LRK, including Bajana and Zainabad. Several private resorts in the area organize safaris in the LRK, such as Bhavna Farm & Resort, Rann Riders, and Royal Safari Camp. However, these resorts are quite expensive, with rates starting at ₹5,000 for two people.
We visited Bhavna Farm but were informed that the safari season had officially ended on June 15, which is the usual practice for any reserve forest. Interestingly, we had heard in Kolkata that sometimes these safaris are organized even beyond June 15, so we decided to try our luck. Unfortunately, heavy rains greeted us upon arrival, making a safari impossible.
The LRK is renowned for its Wild Ass Sanctuary and the stunning White Desert (salt plains), both of which attract visitors from across the globe.
The Little Rann of Kutch (LRK) spans an impressive 4953 sq km and is home to the last remaining population of the chestnut-colored Indian wild ass (khur). In addition, the sanctuary hosts other wildlife like blue bulls (nilgai), blackbucks, and chinkaras. Between October and March, the LRK transforms into a birdwatcher's paradise, as it becomes a breeding ground for flamingos and other migratory birds.
Guides can arrange permits for your visit, but note that the permit cost is usually additional to the safari prices.
Next, we headed to the Sun Temple at Modhera, a magnificent structure dating back 1000 years to the 11th century. This temple, one of the finest examples of Solanki architecture, was constructed in 1026–27 AD during the reign of Bhima I of the Chalukya dynasty.
Dedicated to the solar deity Surya, the temple is situated in Modhera village, in the Mehsana district of Gujarat, on the banks of the river Pushpavati. The temple’s intricate panels depict various forms of Surya, Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.
A remarkable feature of the temple complex is the step-well located adjacent to the main shrine. The stunning view of the temple with the step-well as a backdrop leaves visitors in awe.
Next, we continued our journey to Patan, where we visited the renowned Rani ki Vav, a magnificent stepwell that dates back to 1304 AD. This architectural marvel is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is believed that this grand structure was commissioned by Queen Udaymati in memory of her husband, Bhimdev I (who reigned from AD 1022 to 1063). The intricate carvings and exquisite design of this stepwell left me awestruck.
Having never seen a stepwell before, I was deeply impressed by the scale, artistry, and purpose of this masterpiece. Rani ki Vav is regarded as one of the finest stepwells in the world and stands as a testament to the rich heritage of the ancient capital city of Patan.
After spending some time at Patan, we departed for our night stay at Dhrangadhra. This homestay is part of SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association). SEWA focuses on organizing self-employed women workers in the informal economy, striving toward two primary goals: full employment and self-reliance.
The Community Learning Centre at Dhrangadhra served as our home for the night, offering us an opportunity to experience being a part of the larger SEWA family. This centre represents 50,000 salt-pan workers who work tirelessly in the Little Rann of Kutch. Visitors here can witness salt-pan workers learning the use of technology, marketing techniques, and other vocational skills aimed at improving their livelihoods.
Unfortunately, when we arrived, there was a power failure, so we shifted to Sobhna-ben's homestay. Later, we enjoyed a delicious, home-cooked Gujarati meal at Minaxi-ben's house, which included the regional specialty, Sev Tomato.
During our stay, we also learnt more about the workings of SEWA and its efforts to empower the women of the community. Spending the night in this serene rural setting, far from the madding crowd, was a unique experience. As we drifted off to sleep, the rhythmic croaking of thousands of frogs created a natural lullaby that made our stay truly memorable.
This morning, we had breakfast at Sobhna-ben's house and then, accompanied by Nayna-ben, we visited the workshop of a stone-carving artisan and a nearby stone quarry. It was fascinating to witness the intricate craftsmanship and hard work involved in this traditional trade.
Since it is July, marking the onset of the monsoon, salt production has come to a halt, and the salt workers have returned to their villages. The contrast between the vibrant stone-carving activities and the silent, rain-washed salt pans highlighted the seasonal rhythms of life in this region.
We learnt that stone carving and salt production are the two most important industries in this village. Afterward, we left for Bhuj.
On the way, we spotted Painted Stork, flamingos, visited a salt factory, and marveled at the numerous windmills that dot the landscape.
We saw nomadic people from the Rabari tribe, recognizable by their signature dress, traveling from one place to another with their camels. This is a common sight during the journey to Bhuj.
 |
| Rabari |
We also saw Maldhari people moving with their buffaloes, goats, and sheep.
 |
| Malhari tribe |
The roads to Bhuj are perfect. We decided not to visit Dholavira, since it is essentially in ruins and there isn’t much to see. In the process, we saved a lot of time and decided to visit the handicraft villages instead. Kutch is the heart of handicrafts in Gujarat. However, Dholavira contains the ruins of an ancient Indus Valley Civilization/Harappan city. It has been discovered that there was a port city in Dholavira 5,000 years ago, and trading relations have been found with Mesopotamia (present-day Iraq), as beads from the region were found.
In 1856, British colonial officials in India were busy monitoring the construction of a railway connecting the cities of Lahore and Karachi in modern-day Pakistan along the Indus River valley. Though they did not know it at the time, and though the first major excavations didn’t take place until the 1920s, these railway workers had happened upon the remnants of the Indus Valley Civilization, also known as the Harappan Civilization, after Harappa, the first of its sites to be excavated, in what is now Punjab province of British India and now in Pakistan, near Lahore/Amritsar. Initially, many archaeologists thought they had found ruins of the ancient Maurya Empire, a large empire which dominated ancient India between (of Ashoka fame) c. 322 and 185 BC. The discovery of Harappa, and soon afterwards, Mohenjo-Daro (beside the Indus River in Sindh, near Karachi) was the culmination of work done by the Archaeological Survey of India in the British Raj.
Before the excavation of these Harappan cities, scholars thought that Indian civilization had begun in the Ganges valley as Aryan immigrants from Persia (Iran) and Central Asia (e.g. Georgia) populated the region around 1250 BC. The discovery of ancient Harappan cities unsettled that conception and moved the timeline back another 1,500 years, placing the Indus Valley Civilization in an entirely different environmental context. The Indus Valley civilization was larger than the ancient civilizations of Egypt and Mesopotamia combined. Scientists from IIT-Kharagpur and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) have recently uncovered evidence that the Indus Valley Civilization is at least 8,000 years old, and not 5,500 years old as previously believed. This discovery, published in the prestigious Nature journal on May 25, 2016, makes it not only older than the Egyptian (7000-3000 BC) and Mesopotamian civilizations (6500-3100 BC) in the valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates, but also the oldest in the world! Their claim pushes back the mature phase of the Indus Valley Civilization (with significant remains in Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro in modern Pakistan and Dholavira in Gujarat) from its current dating of 2600-1700 BC to 8000-2000 BC, and the pre-Harappan phase to 9000-8000 BC. Along with Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia, it was one of the three early civilizations of the Old World. The script of the Indus Valley Civilization remains undeciphered.
Several groups and communities live in Kutch. These comprise various nomadic, semi-nomadic, and artisan groups, and the majority of Kutch’s population is Gujarati Ahirs. Once considered economically backward, the government’s efforts in the region have ensured their rising prosperity.
First, we went to Anjar to buy the famous Bandhni or Tie and Dye work in the market. We bought some items from the market.
Then we went to Bhujodi and visited the house of the famous Vankar Devji Premji. The name Vankar Devji Premji Bhai may sound like one person, but it actually refers to the father-son duo of Vankars Premji Bhai and Devji Bhai. They have worked tirelessly to preserve the Kutch weaving tradition. The family has won several accolades for their skills and contributions to the craft. Premji Bhai is a pioneer of the 1960s Bhujodi Weavers’ Co-operative and the recipient of the prestigious Sant Kabir Award.
Devji Bhai, the older son, is an award-winning weaver as well as a bhajnik (community bhajan singer). You can buy textiles from their shop attached to their home.
Once upon a time, the nomadic, pastoral communities of Kutch roamed the salted marshes and wetlands, trading for food and clothing. The roaming Rabaris, who were sheep and camel herders, supplied the Vankars (traditional weavers) with wool to turn into fabric. The Vankars and their entire families spent days, even weeks, at the loom to make the cloth, which would then be given to the Khatris to dye it in shades of blue, red, or yellow, and adorn it with beautiful prints. The Rabaris would then embroider these textiles in vibrant colors and mirrors to use as clothing or home textiles.
Though these symbiotic chains may have been replaced by a faster pace of life, the Vankars of Kutch are still at work, spending solitary hours crouched at their wooden looms to keep their cultural identity, and the region’s, alive.
(Source: Jaypore Blog)
We met Devji Bhai and his mother. Her dress is a typical Kuchi attire, which is really impressive. They offered us a cup of tea. We learnt that Devji Bhai goes to Central Park, Salt Lake, Kolkata during winter for exhibitions.
 |
| Devji Bhai |
Shrujan, an NGO working with the local artisans, was unfortunately closed today since it was a Sunday. It is located just beside Premji Bhai’s house. Incidentally, the origin of Azim Premji is Kutch.
Then we went to the house of Dr. Ismail Mohammad Khatri in Ajrakhpur, 6 km east of Bhujodi. The Khatri family runs a 10-generation-old block-printing business, renowned for its real quality, using all-natural dyes in bold geometric designs. You can buy tablecloths, shawls, skirts, sarīs, and other attractive products, but they are quite expensive.
When we arrived, Dr. Khatri had already left for his evening Namaz. Interestingly, we saw the FabIndia logo on their shelf. Shshsh...!!!
Today, our plan is to visit Sumrasar Sheikh, Jura, Nirona, Dhordo, and Khavdha, all of which are famous for their stunning handicrafts.
We first went to Sumrasar Sheikh to see Kala Raksha, a non-profit trust dedicated to preserving and promoting the arts of Kutch. The trust works with around 1000 embroiderers and patchwork and appliqué artisans from six communities in approximately 26 villages. Kala Raksha has a small museum and shop, and they can also arrange visits to the villages to meet artisans and see their work firsthand.
Our next destination was the famous village of Nirona. First, we went to see Rogan Art, an ancient skill with its origins in Persia (Iran), which was introduced to Kutch around 400 years ago. Although some sources say the name "Rogan" might suggest the art form's Persian roots, there are no historical records to definitively confirm this. Today, Rogan Art is practiced by a single Muslim family, the Khatris, in India.
The process of creating Rogan art is time-consuming. First, castor oil (known as "rogan") is heated to boiling point over the course of three days, then cooled. As it thickens, the oil is mixed with appropriate colors. The pastes of yellow, red, white, green, black, and orange are kept moist in earthen pots with water. A thin iron rod, flat at both ends, is used to paint intricate designs.
The fact that the Khatris are the only family practicing this art is a rare advantage, and with the rising tourism in Kutch, the potential for this craft to thrive is increasing. Abdul Gafoor Khatri says, "We are looking forward to Kutch's fast expansion as a tourist destination. That will change our fortunes."
The designs typically include floral motifs, animals, and oriental architectural elements. A single wall piece can take up to three months to complete. Rogan art wall hangings can fetch anywhere between Rs 8,000 and Rs 12,000, with some pieces commanding even higher prices. One of the Khatris' most famous works, the "Tree of Life," was sold for Rs 18,000. Abdul Gafoor Khatri received the National Textile Art Award for a Rogan art sari from former Prime Minister A.B. Vajpayee.
The Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi, gifted a couple of exquisite handcrafted Rogan paintings to US President Barack Obama during his visit to the US in 2014, highlighting the cultural significance and international appreciation of this rare art form.
During our visit, we were given a live demonstration of how Rogan art is done. Watching the intricate process firsthand was truly mesmerizing – something we had never seen before. The artisans demonstrated the painstaking effort and delicate techniques involved in creating these vibrant, oil-based artworks.
Since the minimum cost of a Rogan painting was Rs 2500, and they did not accept credit or debit cards, we had to leave their house without making a purchase. However, the demonstration itself was an unforgettable experience, showcasing the unique craftsmanship of the Khatri family.
From there, we went to the more famous copper bell (wind chime) makers – Luhar Umer Hussain and Hussain Sidhik's house. Their variety was more extensive, but the items were also more expensive compared to the ones we had purchased from Zura. The Luhars in Nirona have been preserving the craft of making copper bells for over seven generations. Though their collection was impressive, we did not make any purchases here.
Next, we visited Bhachai Bhai and his family to see their lacquer art. Lalji, who was sitting by his tools, was working on a wooden belan (rolling pin), lending it an artistic vibrance. He showed us how raw lacquer in various colors is skillfully applied to the wooden object in beautiful waves.
The work primarily focuses on household items, such as jewelry boxes and kitchen utensils, and has been known to last more than 30-35 years. If the lacquer work starts to lose its sheen, you can simply apply some oil to restore it. The women in the family contribute by providing the base colors and also assist in selling the finished items. Dressed in beautiful ethnic outfits, they proudly showed us hundreds of wooden spatulas, knife handles, and belans to choose from. Unfortunately, they did not have a contact number to share, but directions to their workshop can be obtained from the Luhar ki Dukaan.
This lacquer work is carried out by the Vadha community, who use hand-operated lathes to shape the wood and decorate it with lacquer.
Our next destination was Dhordo, famously known as the White Desert due to the snow-white salt that can be found there. On the way, we encountered the unique Kharai camels of Kutch, which are distinguished by their single hump. Kharai camels are an exceptional breed in Kutch that can thrive in both coastal and dry environments. They feed on saline trees and shrubs and can tolerate water with high salinity. Physically, they differ from local camels, with a rounded back, long thin legs, and smaller feet. The most remarkable feature of the Kharai camel, however, is its ability to swim, which is unique in the camel world. These camels can swim up to three kilometers into the sea in search of mangroves, their primary food source.
The Kharai camels are bred by two distinct communities — the Fakirani Jats, who handle the camels, and the Rabaris, who own them. As we’ve mentioned before, the Rabaris are one of the many communities in Kutch, and the Fakirani Jats have a striking appearance, resembling people from Pakistan, with their colorful attire.
On our way to Dhordo, we also saw many flamingos. Interestingly, these flamingos are believed to migrate from Croatia, adding a unique touch to the landscape of Kutch.
Dhordo Village, located on the edge of the Indo-Pak border, north of Bhuj, is famous for its White Desert and birdwatching opportunities. The Kutch Rann Utsav (December to January) has made Dhordo a popular destination, and during the festival, the village becomes quite crowded. Many tents are set up in Dhordo to offer visitors closer access to the White Desert, but the prices for these tents soar during this time. When we visited, there were hardly any tourists around, and the main reason we didn’t get to see the famous White Desert was because of the monsoon. The area was flooded with seawater.
The transformation of the landscape on the road to Dhordo from Bhuj is awe-inspiring. As we approached the Great Rann of Kutch, our first glimpse was breathtaking. The whole area was once a shallow sea, and we were in the middle of one of the most hostile terrains on the subcontinent. The terrain reminded me of Merzouga, near the Sahara Desert in Morocco, which I visited three months ago. Just like Merzouga, the vegetation is sparse, and human habitation is nearly nonexistent. When we reached the end of the road in Dhordo, the area was flooded with knee-deep water. We enjoyed a 360-degree view from a watchtower at the end of the road, making it a unique and memorable experience.
But there is a fascinating story about Maharaja Digvijay Singhji Ranjit Singhji Jadeja of Nawanagar, the nephew of the famous Indian cricketer Ranjit Singhji Vibhaji of the Jadeja clan. During the ravages of the Second World War, Poland was devastated, with its people held in concentration camps and many children left orphaned. Hundreds of Polish women and children managed to escape, but all countries they approached for help turned them away.
When their ship arrived in Mumbai, the British governor refused them entry. Maharaja Digvijay Singhji of Nawanagar, upon hearing about their plight, took matters into his own hands and pressured the British government to allow the refugees to disembark. Frustrated by the British government's lack of empathy, the Maharaja ordered the ship to dock at the Rosi port in his province, marking the beginning of the story of Little Poland in India.
The Maharaja welcomed the refugees warmly, telling them, "Do not consider yourselves orphans. You are now Nawnagaris, and I am Bapu, the father of all the people of Nawanagar, so also yours." The children were set up in tented accommodations, and the Maharaja quickly built the Balachadi camp near his summer palace, about 25 km from the capital city of Jamnagar.
Despite strong objections from the British government, the Maharaja stood firm and treated the refugees as part of his family, even issuing adoption certificates. His generosity provided more than just the essentials, going so far as to bring seven young cooks from Goa to ensure the children’s eating habits were taken into consideration.
The memories of the camp and Maharaja’s kindness still live on in Poland. In recognition of his efforts, the President of Poland posthumously awarded him the Commander’s Cross of the Order of Merit. Poland also honored him by naming him the Honorary Patron of the Warsaw Bednarska High School, and in 2013, the Government of Poland inaugurated 'Good Maharaja Square' in Warsaw.
The Maharaja’s actions are especially remarkable considering that India, amidst the war, was itself battling severe famine and drought."
After roaming around the streets of Jamnagar for a while, we had lunch and then set off for Porbandar – the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, where he spent the first six years of his life. Porbandar is located beside the Arabian Sea. It was once a historic port under the Jetwa Rajputs, a dynasty that ruled vast parts of the Kathiawad peninsula for nearly 2000 years. After being defeated by the Jadeja Rajputs in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, the Jetwas regained power in the 1630s.
We visited Kirti Mandir, the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. The building was likely purchased by his great-grandfather around 1777. The structure itself is quite beautiful and holds great historical significance.
The gates near Kirti Mandir are quite stunning and unique, adding to the charm of the place. Their intricate design and craftsmanship made the entrance even more special, reflecting the cultural richness of the region
The Huzoor Palace is quite stunning, though we did not visit it.
Our next destination was Junagarh via Mangrol. We took the road along the Arabian Sea, but it only offered views of the sea for about 2 km. The route turned out to be less picturesque than I had imagined. Along the way, we passed many windmills.
We stopped near Mangrol Beach, spent some time there, and then continued our journey to Junagadh. After having dinner on the way, we finally reached Junagadh around 10 pm. For the first time, we’re staying in a place that’s not an Airbnb. The hotel is called Hotel Somnath, and I would say it offers good value for money. It's not very far from the railway station.
Junagadh is a historical city in Gujarat. The region became a district of Gujarat state in 1960. Formerly a princely state and the capital of the Kathiawar peninsula, Junagadh was ruled by the Babi dynasty. Muhammad Sher Khan Babi, the founder of the Babi dynasty, and his descendants, the Babi Nawabs of Junagadh, governed the state for two centuries. The city is located at the foot of the Girnar Hills and is the 7th largest city in Gujarat.
After a brief struggle between India and Pakistan, Junagadh joined India on 9 November 1947. Initially, it had planned to join Pakistan, but being landlocked and posing a security threat to India, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, the Home Minister of India, intervened and annexed it to India.
The Saurashtra State was originally called the United State of Kathiawar, formed from around 200 princely states. Thanks to the efforts of Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel and the influence of Mahatma Gandhi, most Kathiawar states agreed to join India and sign the Instrument of Accession.
In 1947, there were 565 princely states, covering 48% of India’s land area and constituting 28% of its population. These states were independent from British India and had their own autonomy, legal systems, railways, universities, and infrastructure, as well as their own coins, flags, and coats of arms.
By the end of 1949, all states except Sikkim had either acceded to India or Pakistan, or were annexed.
We first visited the Mahabat Maqbara, and it was absolutely stunning. This mausoleum, dedicated to Nawab Mahabat Khan II (1851–82) of Junagadh, features a remarkable blend of Euro-Indo-Islamic architecture, with French windows and Gothic columns.
Navghan Kuvo, 52 meters deep and designed to withstand sieges, is almost 1000 years old. Its magnificent staircase spirals around the well shaft.
After we were done exploring the fort complex, we headed to Girnar Hills. It takes at least 5-6 hours to reach the top, as it is rocky and steep—making it a challenging task for people who do not trek much. There are approximately 10,000 steps to reach the top, so, for obvious reasons, we did not attempt it!
Since it was Wednesday, both the Darbar Hall/Junagadh Museum and the zoo were closed. Interestingly, the Asiatic lion in Gujarat did not go extinct due to the patronage of the kings of Junagadh, and the zoo played a significant role in their preservation. After our visit to Junagadh, we had lunch and then took a quick afternoon nap after quite some time. Later, we visited the Girnar Hills, where the sounds of bells and conch shells in the vicinity created a truly heavenly atmosphere.
At dinner, despite our great efforts, we couldn't find Undhiyu—a famous Kathiawar dish traditionally made in a mud pot. We were told that it is only made on Sundays and Mondays. My partner, already tired of very spicy and oily Gujarati food, was hoping for something light, but alas, it was few and far between!
Today we left for Sasan Gir. Since the forest is closed from 15th June onwards all over India, we had to settle for Devaliya National Park. They take you through the forest in a canter at Rs 150/-. The area is around 13 sq km, if I’m not mistaken. Devaliya National Park is a section carved out of Gir National Park, offering tourists the exclusive privilege of viewing lions and other wild animals in an enclosed area. The park is located within Gujarat’s Junagadh district, close to Sasan Gir village, which is only about 12 km away from Devaliya National Park. If you are coming from Junagadh, Sasan Gir village comes after Devaliya.
There is a nice souvenir shop inside the park. The souvenirs are not only of good quality, but also one of the cheapest I have ever come across. I bought a jacket from the shop, and it was actually cheaper than the one I found in Kolkata. We only had to wait for about 30 minutes for the canter to be full, during which time we bought the souvenirs. The sightings inside the park were really good!
Then we left for Sasan Gir. Although the safari is closed, we visited a nice museum inside the Sasan Gir office area. I’ve been planning to see the Siddis living in Gujarat for the last 25 years, and we were really lucky to meet the Siddis who stay near the forest. In fact, we went to the Siddi village with Imran, a guide in the Gir Forest. They perform African dances for tourists.
I learnt from Imran that although the forest is closed, it’s possible to view the forest from the buffer zone. You can either hire their car or take your own car with him as a guide. We didn’t know this, and since the forest was closed, we hadn’t planned to stay in the vicinity. One can also stay inside the forest area, in a place run by the Deputy Conservator of Forests, Wildlife Division, Sasan Gir. One can book this online.
The Siddi tribe is African by origin, Indian by nationality, with Gujarati as their lingua franca. They live in a village called Jambur, located in the heart of Gujarat, approximately 100 kilometers from Junagadh. The village is surrounded by the Gir Forest, which is home to the last remaining Asiatic lions.
The Siddis have completed 300 years in Gujarat. Their settlement did not happen out of choice, but by force. According to the tribals, there is a long history to their presence in India. The Nawab of Junagadh had once visited Africa, where he fell in love with an African woman. They got married, and she moved to India with him. She came with a hundred slaves, and since then, the Siddis have been based in Gujarat. According to Imran, most of them are from Kenya or Uganda.
Before reaching the temple area, we had our lunch and then headed to the Somnath temple. We didn’t go inside as cameras are not allowed, but we did get a chance to view the temple from the outside.
The Somnath temple is one of the most important pilgrimage and tourist destinations in Gujarat. It has been destroyed and reconstructed multiple times in the past. The present temple, constructed in the Chalukya style of Hindu temple architecture, was finally completed in May 1951. It is believed to be the first among the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva.
According to popular tradition documented by J. Gordon Melton, the first Shiva temple at Somnath is believed to have been built at an unknown time. The second temple was constructed at the same site by the Yadava kings of Vallabhi around 649 CE.
In 725 CE, Al-Junayd, the Arab governor of Sind, is said to have destroyed the second temple during his invasions of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
In 1024, during the reign of Bhima I, the prominent Turkic ruler Mahmud of Ghazni raided Gujarat, plundering the Somnath temple and breaking its Jyotirlinga.
In 1546, the Portuguese, based in Goa, attacked ports and towns in Gujarat, including Somnath, and destroyed several temples and mosques. The temple was ordered to be destroyed by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1702.
After spending some time in Somnath, we left for Diu, which is about an hour's drive away. Diu is connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. It was a Portuguese colony from 1539 until 1961, when the Indian government used military action to reclaim all the Portuguese enclaves. In addition to Diu, Daman, Goa, and Dadra and Nagar Haveli were also taken during this conflict. These regions were once part of the larger union territory of Goa, Daman, and Diu before Goa became a separate state. The Union Territory of Daman and Diu is still administered from Delhi.
Historically, Diu was governed by the Mauryas from 322-320 BC and was a significant trade center on the Saurashtra Coast.
Though Diu does not have spectacular beaches, it offers a very relaxed atmosphere compared to most of India. The region boasts some of the best roads in India, and parts of it feel distinctly different from the rest of the country. The primary language spoken here is Gujarati.
We stayed in a hotel owned by a Portuguese descendant, located behind a church that has now been converted into the Diu Museum. The hotel’s location was quite unique.
Since it was getting dark, we headed for dinner and had a delightful meal at Apana Foodland, which is considered one of the best places for dinner in Diu according to Tripadvisor. I finally tried Undhiyon, but it was so spicy that I couldn’t finish it! However, the rest of the food was quite good, especially the soup and fried rice. They also serve an amazing fresh lime soda for just Rs 15!
From the fort, you get a magnificent view of the sea, as it skirts the coastline on three sides. The outer wall of the fort was built along the shoreline, and a moat around it provided added security. The location of the fort is unique, and I haven’t come across anything like it anywhere else in India. Once inside, you are overwhelmed by the majesty of the ancient stonework, which transports you to a bygone era where time seems to stand still.
We also saw the unique Hokka tree, which is found only in Diu.
After that, we visited the Fudam Bird Sanctuary and went up to the watchtower. From there, we were able to spot some flamingos, adding a touch of beauty to our visit.
Today, we had dinner again at Apana Foodland. We heard that one can go to the Ghogla area on the mainland to enjoy some fish fry.
Today, we had some nice pancakes at our hotel and left for Palitana, which is on the way to Ahmedabad. Palitana is a town in Bhavnagar district, Gujarat, India, located 50 km southwest of Bhavnagar city. It is a major pilgrimage center for Jains. Ādināth, the first of the Jain tirthankaras, is said to have meditated on the Shatrunjaya hill, where the Palitana temples were later constructed. The Palitana State was a princely state, founded in 1194, and was one of the major states in Saurashtra. The only way to reach the top is by climbing (or by being carried up) 3,572 steps—a stiff 2-hour ascent. The view from the top is quite stunning.
We skipped this and took a different route through Tulsi Shyam, which is part of the Gir forest. We were later told that, although it's not the main safari route, you can still spot lions in the evening on the street. We saw many birds along the way. You need a permit to go inside.
We had tea (with the tea bag provided by our host). They had stocked the kitchen with Maggi, canned fruit juice, oil, salt, and sugar. There’s also a nice room where you can watch TV! Today, we left for Champaner and Pavagadh, about 2.5-3 hours from Ahmedabad. Champaner is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, located in the Panchmahal district of Gujarat, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It centers around the historical city of Champaner, founded by Sultan Mahmud Begada of Gujarat. The site is rich in forts, extending up to the hills of Pavagadh.
The name Champaner is believed to come from Champa, a Vania or Kanbi, who established the city during the rule of Vanraj Chavda of Anhilwad Patan (746-806 AD). In the 11th century, Ram Gaur Tuar ruled, and the city remained under Anhilwad’s control until it was taken by Alauddin Khilji in 1297. During this period, the Chauhan Gurjars also settled in Champaner. The Solanki kings and Khichi Chauhans ruled from the Pavagadh Hill, where they built fortresses. However, they lost control in 1484.
The city of Champaner was well-planned, with streets and whitewashed stone houses. After the death of young Sikander Shah in 1526, Bahadur Shah became the ruler. In 1535, Mughal Emperor Humayun invaded Champaner, looting its treasures. After Bahadur Shah's death in 1536, the capital was shifted back to Ahmedabad, and the city rapidly declined, largely abandoned and neglected for centuries. We went to see the Jama Masjid and Kevada Masjid during our visit.
Otherwise, our tour went very well; the law of averages was bound to catch up. Everything had been too perfect. Although it was the rainy season, we didn’t encounter any rain while visiting sites. It always seemed to rain either when we were inside the car or right after we had finished at a site.
We had lunch there and then headed for Pavagadh Hill. Champaner lies at the foot of Pavagadh Hill, where the Kalika Mata Mandir stands at the top, overlooking the region. The view from the top is truly stunning, especially the Jama Masjid, which reminded me of the Blue Mosque. There was a huge crowd due to a special occasion, and parking was impossible. After a while, we were stuck in a massive traffic jam, so we decided to turn around and head back to Ahmedabad. Before reaching Ahmedabad, we had an early dinner since we had to pack. Interestingly, we saw the famous BRTS in Ahmedabad, which was exactly the same system I had seen in Belo Horizonte, Brazil.
4. https://www.khanacademy.org
One can also read https://qz.com to know more about them
